LIGHT CYCLE CHART FOR FLOWERING

DAY   HOURS ON       HOURS OFF

1       24              0
2       23.5            .5
3       23              1
4       22.5            1.5
5       22              2
6       21.5            2.5
7       21              3
8       20.5            3.5
9       20              4
10      19.5            4.5
11      19              5
12      18.5            5.5
13      18              6
14      17.5            6.5
15      17              7
16      16.5            7.5
17      16              8
18      15.5            8.5
19      15              9
20      14.5            9.5
21      14              10
22      13.5            10.5
23      13              11
24      12.5            11.5
25      12              12

During the flowering phase, 12 hours of uninterrupted light stimulates the production of budding sites for the flowers. The light is left on 12 hours a day till plants are harvested.

I cannot stress enough that during the flowering phase, the dark period should not be violated by any light. It delays flower development and promotes leaf growth. If you must work on the plants during this time, allow only as much light as a very pale moon can provide for less than 5 minutes.

Temperature Cycle

The atmospheric temperature in your grow room should be in 70's and 80's for most marijuana strains. Optimum temperature for most indoor strains is 70-73 degrees during the day and slightly lower, but not much lower than 65 at night. If the plants grew well when they were in the vegetative phase, try to maintain the same day and night temperature ranges when they are flowering.

A marijuana strain that originated in a hot climate will require a higher optimal temperature than a strain that originated in a cooler climate. If you are not sure where your seeds originated and do not seem to be doing well following the temperature ranges stated above, you can experiment with temperature to see what effect warmer or cooler temperature will have.

                                                   INDOOR CANNABIS CULTIVATION 

Introduction:

Growing indoors is fast becoming an American pastime. The reasons are varied. With the increased interest and experimentation in house plant cultivation, it was inevitable that people would apply their knowledge of plant care to growing . Many of those who occasionally like to light up a joint may find it difficult to locate a source or are hesitant to deal with a perhaps unsavory element of society in procuring their grass. There is, of course, the criminal aspect of buying or selling grass; Growing is just as illegal as buying, selling, or smoking it, but growing is something you can do in the privacy of your own home without having to deal with someone you don't know or trust. The best reason for growing your own is the enjoyment you will get out of watching those tiny little seeds you picked out of you stash sprout and become some of the most lovely and lush of all house plants.

Anyone Can Do It

Even if you haven't had any prior experience with growing plants in you home, you can have a successful crop of by following the simple directions in this pamphlet. If you have had problems in the past with cultivation, you may find the solutions in the following chapters. Growing a plant involves four basic steps:

1. Get the seeds. If you don't already have some, you can ask you friends to save you seeds out of any good grass they may come across. You'll find that lots of people already have a seed collection of some sort and are willing to part with a few prime seeds in exchange for some of the finished product.
2. Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a seed into moist soil, but by germinating the seeds first you can be sure that the seed will indeed produce a plant. To germinate seeds, place a group of them between about six moist paper towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge. Leave the towels or sponge moist but not soaking wet. Some seeds will germinate in 24 hours while others may take several days or even a week.
3. Plant the sprouts. As soon as a seed cracks open and begins to sprout, place it on some moist soil and sprinkle a little soil over the top of it.
4. Supply the plants with light. Flourescent lights are the best. Hang the lights with two inches of the soil and after the plants appear above the ground, continue to keep the lights with two inches of the plants. It is as easy as that. If you follow those four steps you will grow a plant. To ensure prime quality and the highest yield in the shortest time period, however, a few details are necessary.

Soil

Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds, is the soil. Use the best soil you can get. Scrimping on the soil doesn't pay off in the long run. If you use unsterilized soil you will almost certainly find parasites in it, probably after it is too late to transplant your . You can find excellent soil for sale at your local plant shop or nursery, K-Mart, Wal Mart, and even some grocery stores. The soil you use should have these properties for the best possible results:

1. It should drain well. That is, it should have some sand in it and also some sponge rock or pearlite.
2. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since does not do well in acidic soil. High acidity in soil encourages the plant to be predominantly male, an undesirable trait.
3. The soil should also contain humus for retaining moisture and nutrients.

If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use this recipe: Mix two parts moss with one part sand and one part pearlite or sponge rock to each four gallons of soil. Test your soil for ph with litmus paper or with a soil testing kit available at most plant stores. To raise the ph of the soil, add 1/2 lb. lime to 1 cubic foot of soil to raise the ph one point. If you absolutely insist on using dirt you dug up from your driveway, you must sterilize it by baking it in your oven for about an hour at 250 degrees. Be sure to moisten it thoroughly first and also prepare yourself for a rapid evacuation of your kitchen because that hot soil is going to stink. Now add to the mixture about one tablespoon of fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro) per gallon of soil and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip the whole process and spend a couple bucks on some soil.

Containers

After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come up with some kind of container to plant in. The container should be sterilized as well, especially if they have been used previously for growing other plants. The size of the container has a great deal to do with the rate of growth and overall size of the plant. You should plan on transplanting your plant not more than one time, since the process of transplanting can be a shock to the plant and it will have to undergo a recovery period in which growth is slowed or even stopped for a short while. The first container you use should be no larger than six inches in diameter and can be made of clay or plastic. To transplant, simply prepare the larger by filling it with soil and scooping out a little hole about the size of the smaller that the plant is in. Turn the plant upside down, and all, and tap the rim of the sharply on a counter or the edge of the sink. The soil and root ball should come out of the cleanly with the soil retaining the shape of the and with no disturbances to the root ball. Another method that can bypass the transplanting problem is using a Jiffy-Pot. Jiffy pots are made of compressed peat moss and can be planted right into moist soil where they decompose and allow the passage of the root system through their walls. The second container should have a volume of at least three gallons. doesn't like to have its roots bound or cramped for space, so always be sure that the container you use will be deep enough for your plant's root system. It is very difficult to transplant a five-foot tree, so plan ahead. It is going to get bigger. The small plants should be ready to transplant into their permanent homes in about two weeks. Keep a close watch on them after the first week or so and avoid root binding at all costs since the plants never seem to do as well once they have been stunted by the cramping of their roots.

Fertilizer

As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.

Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives gradually. seems to be able to take as much fertilizer as you want to give it as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During the first three months or so, fertilize your plants every few days. As the rate of foliage growth slows down in the plant's preparation for blooming and seed production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed down as well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to harvest it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow down resin production. A word here about the most organic of fertilizers: worm castings. As you may know, worms are raised commercially for sale to gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the worms are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best food around. After the worms have eaten all the organic matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains are then sold as worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can grow in straight worm castings. This isn't really necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive. If you can afford them you can, however, blend them in with your soil and they will make a very good organic fertilizer.

Light

 Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the countries in which grows best, the sun is the source of light. The amount of light and the length of the growing season in these countries results in huge tree-like plants. In most parts of North America, however, the sun is not generally intense enough for long enough periods of time to produce the same size and quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin America and other tropical countries. The answer to the problem of lack of sun, especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season, and other problems is to grow indoor under simulated conditions. The rule of thumb seems to be the more light, the better. In one experiment we know of, eight eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were used over eight plants. The plants grew at an astonishing rate. The lights had to be raised every day. There are many types of artificial light and all of them do different things to your plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of the frequencies of light the plant can use, but it also emits a high percentage of far red and infra-red light which cause the plant to concentrate its growth on the stem. This results in the plant stretching toward the light bulb until it becomes so tall and spindly that it just weakly topples over. There are several brands of bulb type. One is the incandescent plant spot light which emits higher amounts of red and blue light than the common light bulb. It is an improvement, but has it drawbacks. it is hot, for example, and cannot be placed close to the plants.  Consequently, the plant has to stretch upwards again and is in danger of becoming elongated and falling over. The red bands of light seem to encourage stem growth which is not desirable in growing . the idea is to encourage foliage growth for obvious reasons. Gro-Lux lights are probably the most common flourescent plant lights. In our experience with them, they have proven themselves to be extremely effective. They range in size from one to eight feet in length so you can set up a growing room in a closet or a warehouse. There are two types of Gro-Lux lights: The standard and the wide spectrum. They can be used in conjunction with on another, but the wide spectrum lights are not sufficient on their own. The wide spectrum lights were designed as a supplementary light source and are cheaper than the standard lights. Wide spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the standard but the standard emit higher concentrations of red and blue bands that the plants need to grow. The wide spectrum lights also emit infra-red, the effect of which on stem growth we have already discussed. If you are planning to grow on a large scale, you might be interested to know that the regular flourescent lamps and fixtures, the type that are used in commercial lighting, work well when used along with standard Gro- Lux lights. These commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest of the flourescent lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue light as the Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the plants use in foliage growth.

Now we come to the question of intensity. Both the standard and wide spectrum lamps come in three intensities: regular output, high output, and very high output. You can grow a nice crop of plants under the regular output lamps and probably be quite satisfied with our results. The difference in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes to grow a crop. Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three times the rate at which they grow under the standard lamps. People have been known to get a plant that is four feet tall in two months under one of these lights. Under the VHO lights, one may have to raise the lights every day which means a growth rate of ate least two inches a day. The only drawback is the expense of the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps and fixtures are almost twice the price of the standard. If you are interested in our opinion, they are well worth it. Now that you have your lights up, you might be curious about the amount of light to give you plants per day. The maturation date of your plants is dependent on how much light they receive per day. The longer the dark period per day, the sooner the plant will bloom. Generally speaking, the less dark per day the better during the first six months of the plant's life. The older the plant is before it blooms and goes to seed, the better the grass will be. After the plant is allowed to bloom, its metabolic rate is slowed so that the plant's quality does not increase with the age at the same rate it did before it bloomed. The idea, then, is to let the plant get as old as possible before allowing it to mature so that the potency will be a high as possible at the time of harvest. One relatively sure way to keep your plants from blooming until you are ready for them is to leave the lights on all the time. Occasionally a plant will go ahead and bloom anyway, but it is the exception rather than the rule. If your plants receive 12 hours of light per day they will probably mature in 2 to 2.5 months. If they get 16 hours of light per day they will probably be blooming in 3.5 to 4 months. With 18 hours of light per day, they will flower in 4.5 to 5 months. Its a good idea to put your lights on a timer to ensure that the amount of light received each day remains constant. A "vacation" timer, normally used to make it look like you are home while you are away, works nicely and can be found at most hardware or discount stores.

Temperature and Humidity

The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78 degrees fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be about a 15 degree drop in temperature. The growing room should be relatively dry if possible. What you want is a resinous coating on the leaves and to get the plant to do this, you must convince it that it needs the resinous coating on its leaves to protect itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants develop wide leaves and do not produce as much resin. You must take care not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however, since the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its roots and its foliage will begin to brown out.

Ventilation

Proper ventilation in your growing room is fairly important. The more plants you have in one room, the more important good ventilation becomes. Plants breathe through their leaves. The also rid themselves of poisons through their leaves. If proper ventilation is not maintained, the pores of the leaves will become clogged and the leaves will die. If there is a free movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves and the plant can breathe and remain healthy.

 In a small closet where there are only a few plants you can probably create enough air circulation just by opening the door to look at them. Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would be larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing room, your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon dioxide that you are exhaling around them. It is sometimes quite difficult to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room is usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some movement of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier stalk. Often times in an indoor environment, the stems of plants fail to become rigid because they don't have to cope with elements of wind and rain. To a degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its energy into producing leaves and resin instead of stems.

Dehumidifying Your Growing Room

that grows in a hot, dry climate will have narrower leaves than grown in a humid atmosphere. The reason is that in a dry atmosphere the plant can respirate easier because the moisture on the leaves evaporates faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot evaporate as fast. Consequently, the leaves have to be broader with more surface area in order to expel the wastes that the plant put out. Since the broad leaves produce less resin per leaf than the narrow there will be more resin in an ounce of narrow leaves than in one ounce of broad leaves. There may be more leaf mass in the broader leafed plants, but most people are growing their own for quality rather than quantity.

Since the resin in the plant serves the purpose of keeping the leaves from drying out, there is more apt to be a lot of resin produced in a dry room than in a humid one. In the Sears catalog, dehumidifiers cost around $100.00 and are therefore a bit impractical for the "hobby grower."

Watering

Bugs

If you can avoid getting bugs in the first place you will be much better off. Once your plants become infested you will probably be fighting bugs for the rest of your plants' lives. To avoid bugs be sure to use sterilized soil and containers and don't bring other plants from outside into your growing room. If you have pets, ensure that they stay out of your growing room, since they can bring in pests on their fur. Examine your plants regularly for signs of insects, spots, holes in the leaves, browning of the tips of the leaves, and droopy branches. If you find that somehow in spite of all your precautions you have a plant room full of bugs, you'll have to spray your plants with some kind of insecticide. You'll want to use something that will kill the bugs and not you. Spider mites are probably the bug that will do the most damage to the plants. One of the reasons is that they are almost microscopic and very hard to spot. They are called spider mites because they leave a web-like substance clinging to the leaves. They also cause tiny little spots to appear on the leaves. Probably the first thing you'll notice, however, is that your plants look sick and depressed. The mites suck enzymes from the leaves and as a result the leaves lose some of their green color and glossiness. Sometimes the leaves look like they have some kid of fungus on them. The eggs are very tiny black dots. You might be wise to get a magnifying glass so that you can really scrutinize your plants closely. Be sure to examine the underside of the leaves too. The mites will often be found clinging to the underside as well as the top of the leaves. The sooner you start fighting the bugs, the easier it will be to get rid of them. For killing spider mites on , one of the best insecticides if "Fruit and Berry" spray made by Millers. Ortho also produces several insecticides that will kill mites. The ingredients to look for are Kelthane and Malatheon. Both of these poisons are lethal to humans and pets as well as bugs, but they both detoxify in about ten days so you can safely smoke the grass ten days after spraying. Fruit and Berry will only kill the adult mite, however, and you'll have to spray every four days for about two weeks to be sure that you have killed all the adults before they have had a chance to lay eggs. Keep a close watch on your plants because it only takes one egg laying adult to re- infest your plants and chances are that one or two will escape your barrage of insecticides. If you see little bugs flying around your plants, they are probably white flies. The adults are immune to almost all the commercial insecticides except Fruit and Berry which will not kill the eggs or larva. It is the larval stage of this insect that does the most damage. They suck out enzymes too, and kill your plants if they go unchecked. You will have to get on a spraying program just as was explained in the spider mite section.

An organic method of bug control is using soap suds. Put Ivory flakes in some lukewarm water and work up the suds into a lather. Then put the suds over the plant. The obvious disadvantage is it you don't rinse the soap off the plant you'll taste the soap when you smoke the leaves.

Pruning

We have found that pruning is not always necessary. The reason one does it in the first place is to encourage secondary growth and to allow light to reach the immature leaves. Some strands of grass just naturally grow thick and bushy and if they are not clipped the sap moves in an uninterrupted flow right to the top of the plant where it produces flowers that are thick with resin. On the other hand, if your plants appear tall and spindly for their age at three weeks, they probably require a little trimming to ensure a nice full leafy plant. At three weeks of age your plant should have at least two sets of branches or four leaf clusters and a top. To prune the plant, simply slice the top off just about the place where two branches oppose each other. Use a razor blade in a straight cut. If you want to, you can root the top in some water and when the roots appear, plant the top in moist soil and it should grow into another plant. If you are going to root the top you should cut the end again, this time with a diagonal cut so as to expose more surface to the water or rooting solution. The advantage to taking cuttings from your plant is that it produces more tops. The tops have the resin, and that's the name of the game. Every time you cut off a top, the plant seeds out two more top branches at the base of the existing branches. Pruning also encourages the branches underneath to grow faster than they normally would without the top having been cut.

Harvesting and Curing

 First, pull the plant up roots and all and hang it upside down for 24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery bag with the top open for three or four days or until the leaves feel dry to the touch. Now strip the leaves off the stem and put them in a glass jar with a lid. Don't pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves. The main danger in the curing process is mold. If the leaves are too damp when you put them into the jar, they will mold and since the mold will destroy the resins, mold will ruin your . you should check the jars every day by smelling them and if you smell an acrid aroma, take the weed out of the jar and spread it out on newspaper so that it can dry quickly. Another method is to uproot the plants and hang them upside down. You get some burlap bags damp and slip them up over the plants. Keep the bags damp and leave them in the sun for at least a week. Now put the plants in a paper bag for a few days until the weed is dry enough to smoke. Like many fine things in life, mellows out with age. The aging process tends to remove the chlorophyll taste.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Section 1: Choosing a space to grow

Choosing a space to grow indoors is just as important as choosing the proper space outdoors. Your garden should be located in an out of the way place (not the bedroom). Basements, attics, and closets are all great places. Once you have a few possibilities in mind make sure the have access to electrical outlets. Plan ahead for anything that might require a repairman to visit your house. If your garden is located in the same room as the furnace, and the furnace explodes, your in big trouble. Once the permanent garden location has been selected it is time to prepare it. (For the rest of this document I will assume you have chosen a closet as the grow space) Paint the walls flat white. Do not use tin foil because it can actually focus light like little laser beams and burn holes through the leaves. Next, cover the floor of the closet with plastic. This will help stop water damage to the floor.

Section 2: Containers

Your plants will need to be grown in some kind of cannabis or container. Large plastic pots (like the ones bushes come in) work best. Fill the bottom inch with large gravel to help drainage. And the rest with high quality potting soil with some sand mixed in. Buckets can also be used but drill drainage holes in the bottom. If your containers previously held other plants then they must be sterilized with bleach or alcohol.

Section 3: Ligthing

Since there is no sun in your closet you will have to provide a sun loving plant like cannabis with alot of artificial light. There are three options available to the grower: flourescent lights are cheap, efficient, and don't put out much heat. Metal halide, or MH bulbs, are more expensive but put out much more light than flourescents. They also put out more heat so ventilation is needed. MH bulbs also require a separate ballst in order to work. High Pressure Sodium lamps, or HPS, put out as much light as MH lamps but with a little less heat. Ventilation and a separate ballast are also required.

Flourescent lights

Flourescent lights are the cheapest light to use. They run at about $2 a tube. They produce little heat so ventilation may not be needed unless the space is very small. The light spectrum put out by these lights is suitable for all stages of growing. Because flourescents disperse light over a large area, they need to be kept within three inches of the tops for the plants to receive enough light. This means you will have to mount the lights in a way that the can be raised everyday.

Metal Halide Lights

Metal halide lamps put out the most light. They also produce alot of heat. A strong fan is needed to keep room tempertures down. MH lamps put out light mostly in the blue spectrum. Blue light is used best by the plant during vegative growth. MH lights can also be used for flowering with no adverse effects. A separate ballast is required for these lights to work. They come in sizes from 40 to 1000W. One 1000W lamp will provide enough light in a closet to grow four plants.

High Pressure Sodium Lights

High pressure sodium lamps put out almost as much light as MH and with less heat. Good ventilation is still required though. HPS lamps produce light in mostly the red and orange end of the spectrum. The plants uses this light best when flowering. HPS lamps can also be used for vegative growth with little slow down in foliage production. HPS lamps require a separate ballast for operation.

Some growers switch between MH and HPS depending on what stage the plants are in. MH is used in vegative growth and then the light is swithched over to HPS once flowering begins. Most growers use flourescents to start seedlings and root clones. The flourescents are weaker than the MH and HPS lamps and therefore do not stress them too much. Choose whatever light is best suited for your situation. If your are growing in your attic go with MH or HPS. If your growing in the closet like us, then use flourecents. (For the rest of ths document I will assume the reader is using flourescent lighting)

Section 4: Factors affecting the rate of photosynthesis

There are other factors other than the obvious amount of light that reaches the plants that affect the rate of photosynthesis. These can be manipulated by the grower to achieve maximum speed of growth and larger yields in a shorter period of time.

Humidity

The humidity in the enviroment is the amount of water vapor present in the air. Most growers know that humidity in excess of 85% percent increases the probability of the appearance of bud mold. The humidity is also critical during germanation when the seedlings are extremely fragile. Humidty should be kept over 80% at this stage in the plants life to prevent the soil from drying too fast. Experimentation has shown that a relative humidity of 65% to 80% increases growth rate. Below this level the plants develop extremely narrow and tissue paper thin leaves to try to prevent excess loss of water. Above 80% relative humidity the plant have trouble disposing of toxic chemicals through evaporation.

Temperture

Cannabis can survive tempertures from 32 degrees F to over 100 degrees F. Cannabis will grow best with a temperture of 70 to 75 degrees F day and night. Higher than 90 degrees F the enzymes within the plant begin to breakdown and photosynthesis is affected. The same is true for low tempertures.

Carbon dioxide

Carbon dioxide is a gas that is essential for the light reactions in all plants that carry on photosynthesis. CO2 is absorbed through the leafs stomates and is combined with water and light energy to form glucose (used by the plant as energy) and oxygen (which is released). Therefore supplementing CO2 to the existing amount in the air will speed up photosynthesis and therefore, growth will occur faster. Experimentation has also shown that CO2 can help cannabistoloerate higher tempertures (up to 95 degrees F) with little affect on the rate of photosynthesis.

Water

Although only a small portion of water absorbed by the plant is used in photosynthesis a shortage of water does affect the rate photosynthesis occurs. This happens because when the plant is low on water the stomates on the leaves close preventin the release of waste gases and other toxic chemicals. This closure will severely slow down or even stop photosynthesis from occuring.

Section 5: Sea of green

Sea of green, or SOG, is the theory of harvesting many small plants frequently, instead of large plants less frequently. In an SOG setup the closet is divided into two light tight spaces. In the top space the lights are permanently set on a 12/12 light/dark timer. On the bottom the lights are kept on for 18 hours per day. Flourescent lights are used throughout. The bottom shelf is used to start seedlings and root clones. The top shelf is used for flowering. Using this setup harvesting can take place once a month.

Section 6:Ventilation

Cannabis like all other plants puts out waste through the stomata on it's leaves. Outdoors wind, rain and sun are present to evaporate these toxins from the leaf surface. Indoors the grower must create an enviroment. The best way to do this is with a fan of some kind. If the grow room is large enough then an regualar cooling fan can be placed inside and left on all the time. If you are running a small closet operation then just opening the door twice a day to look at them will create enough air movement for healthy growth. A fan controlled by a thermostat will also work well. These can be found at most electronics stores.

If a large number of plants are to be kept a dehumidifier may be needed. If humidity levels are too high then the chances of mold will dramaticly increase. A dehumidifier will cost a grower about $100 so it isn,t really practical for the closet grower.

Section 7: C02 supplementation

Some growers add C02 to their grow rooms to increase growth rate. This has proved itself to be effective in many experiments. C02 supplementation also helps the plants withstand higher tempertures of up to 95 degrees without slowing down growth. There have been complaints however, that C02 supplementation during flowering reduces potency. Therefore, C02 should be stopped when the lights are turned to 12/12.

Section 8: Early sexing

Since you control the light cycle in an indoor operation it is easy to sex the plants early and eliminate all the males. Just turn the lights down to 12/12 when the plants are eight inches high. Use a magnifying glass to examine the flowers and eliminate all the males.

Section 9: Obtaining seed

If you do want to pollenate some females to produce seed for the next crop it can be done so that only a few buds are pollenated and the rest remain as sinsemilla. First collect pollen from a male. The male should show desirable characteristics, like fast growth, potency and resistence to pest and mold. To collect the pollen just shake the branches into a plactic bag. Black paper can also be used to collect pollen. Just lie it on the floor around the plant, in a few days the paper will have quite a bit of pollen on it. The pollen can be stored in film canisters until it is needed. When needed, use a paintbrush to brush on the pollen to the LOWER branches of the female. The best way to be sure that all the seeds are mature before harvest is to just never harvest the pollenated branches. Let them die naturally so you can be sure they produce viable seed.

Section 10: Harvesting and drying

Wild cannabis plants are vigorous, aggressive, competitive weeds. Some varieties have a large root system which helps them survive moisture stress and poor soil. Plants spaced at least 10 feet apart will grow to a height of 3 - 5 feet in dry climates. Cannabis is a survivor. Given control of a growing area of 4 to 12 square feet, in poor soil, mature plants will grow to about 5 feet tall with a strong terminal main bud or cola. The yield is relatively heavy considering the amount of cultivation work. Add a little more effort during soil preparation and planting to grow several times more dope. Loosen the soil, amend it a little and throw in a handful of polymers*.

                              Simple Steps for Outdoor Growers

About the Authors

Table of Contents

• Acquiring Good Seeds
• Finding a Site
• Making a Trail
• The Mechanics of Growing
  • a. Preparing the Soil
  • b. Planting
  • c. Weeding
  • d. Removing Males
  • e. The Fungus
  • f. Emergency Visits
• The Harvest
• When to Harvest

Acquiring Good Seeds

Quality seed strains are often difficult to obtain. This is especially true for people who hang in a predominantly straight crowd and know few people who partake in the fine erb. The rule of thumb is if the weed gets you pretty high then the seed is usually good to grow. Seeds coming from green bud are often better to grow because the strain is frequently acclimated to the growing season of northern latitudes. Jamaican and Colombian varieties can not be easily produced in northern latitudes because the strains produce bud too late in the season. The results of growing these varieties in most of the U.S. will be little or no bud growth before the first frost hits. Sativa strains usually grow taller than the indica or indica-sativa hybrids. This can be a major drawback especially in the fall when other plants are dying off and trees are losing leaves. Some growers have success crossing sativa varieties from southern climates with Indica, and creating an offspring that will bud more timely.

When at parties, concerts, or other social events, keep an eye out for people breaking up bud and discarding seeds. The best time to look for seeds is from October to January because this is when most of the locally grown outdoor erb hits the market. Acquiring and maintaining a quality seed stock is the most fundamental task of a successful grower.

Finding a Site

Aside from acquiring good seed, picking a prime location to grow is probably the most important task a grower is faced with. One of the best locations is in areas of grasslands that have small trees and bushes interspersed. Often a farmers field that has been out of production for ten years is ideal. Flood plains along rivers and streams are another good location, but the risk of losing seeds in the Spring or the harvest in the Fall due to flooding should be considered. Growers have also been known to plant in buckets in more rocky or mountainous terrain. This enables them to grow in areas that receive good sunlight but have rocky, untillable soil. Digging a site in areas of dense but short plant growth, like sticker bushes, is another suitable spot. The sticker bushes grow high enough to prevent people from seeing through them and also serve as a direct deterrence from people and large animals wandering into the site.

A grower can often use animal and insect life to his advantage. Bees, tics, green flies and the like can discourage people from wandering through fields so areas having an abundant insect population are prime locations. The most important criteria for an excellent growing site are good soil, available water, sunlight, and suitable cover. Other factors are secondary.

Good soil is sometimes hard to find but without it you won't get much of a harvest. So, if you find a site that is perfect for all other factors but has poor soil , you may want to consider bringing soil to the site. Soil is often the richest in areas where grassland vegetation has existed for a series of years. Grasslands recycle nutrients in the soil and form a thick layer of organic matter. Grassland biospheres require very little preparation to start growing, while other soil conditions require more work. Sandy soils often need potting soil or top soil along with a small amount of lime to make them more fertile. Soils with high amounts of clay need material, like peat moss, added to break up the clay and make the soil more porous. I'm a naturalist and disagree with some erb growing professionals who believe that planting along road sides can be productive. The lead and other toxic chemicals found in some of these soils is enough to discourage many vegetable growers from producing consumable or smokable plant material. If you live in a city, and lack your own means of transportation then use roadsides as your last resort.

A close water source is also very important. A site close to the water table would be ideal since bringing water into the site can get tiresome and also dangerous. It can get very tiresome if you have many sites or even a few big sites. If you choose a site much higher than the water table or grow in buckets, you will quickly find that the amount of water needed during a dry summer will be enormous and will give you great incentive to find a site closer to the water table. The dangers in having to bring water to the sites are numerous. The greatest of these would be the chance of someone spotting you, possibly a cop. The second greatest would be the destruction of the foliage you have to walk through to get from the water source to the site. If you have to make more than one trip you run a big risk that a trail will become noticeable. Finding a stable water source in the summer can be another obstacle since small streams often dry up at this time. How often you will need to water is determined by the weather and that could require you to make unexpected trips to the sites. Each trip puts you at risk. Your goal is to minimize these trips.

Sunlight is less important than the previous two components but is still essential. Plants should be in areas that receive at least five hours of direct sunlight per day. Morning sunlight is preferable since plants tend to respond better to it than to the afternoon sunlight. Growers who scout sites during the winter months must be able to visualize how the landscape will be shaded by trees, and the path the sun will take come Spring. Of course, the greater the amount of sunlight the better, but when choosing a site sunlight is just one of many factors that must be considered.

The last criteria has nothing to do with plant biology, but rather focuses on minimizing the threat of unwanted attention from people wandering by. The cover should be both tall enough to keep people from spotting it and thick enough to discourage them from wandering too close to it. The best foliage to accomplish this is a large patch of big sticker bushes. If that's not available, look for foliage that grows to a height of six to eight feet by the fall and is far enough away from where someone might stray.

The Ability to hide plants amongst the flora in fields is an art and skill improved upon through practice. One favorite technique is to hide plants on the south side of bushes so that passers by will have difficulty spotting the plant(s). Plants still get adequate light in spite of the appearance of being crowded by the larger bush. The best hiding spot for erb is where people have their view blocked from all sides and has the appearance of being impenetrable. In areas where the vegetation growth is less than three feet the erb may need to be trimmed back or tied to the ground in order to create smaller bushier plants. Fields with small vegetation growth may have poor soil or can be dry upland environments where the soil frequently becomes too dry so use caution. Making erb junior blend in with the other plants in the field will minimize risk. In order to grow plants efficiently, an outdoor grower must use the natural landscape to his or her advantage.

Making a Trail

One of the ways to ensure success is by creating trails that are not visible to passers by. This is easier in some places than in others. Areas having dense undergrowth with lots of sunlight can be ideal because plant growth is so rapid it will erase any damage to the vegetation between trips during the Spring and Summer. If you are growing plants in areas easy to spot trails then make the path weave back and forth so it becomes difficult for people to see a trail. Making a hidden trail to the site(s) is important because it allows the grower to minimize getting ripped off or worse, caught. People wander through undeveloped areas and follow trails to nowhere all the time. Their access can be limited through thoughtful planning of pathways and proper care in using them. When you walk through your entrance, do everything possible not to damage any of the foliage, especially toward the late Summer and early Fall. At this time of the year, damaged foliage usually will not regrow and this is when the plants need as much cover as possible. There are two things to keep in mind when making a trail to your site(s): 1) Can you see the trail you just made, if not that's great, if so look for ways to cover areas that look like a trail; 2) The more difficult it is for you to get to the site, the less likely someone else will try.

The Mechanics of Growing

Your cousin Louie and his friend Sam are in town from Oklahoma and they have smoked a lot of grass and grown some in their backyards. Sam has a good rap, and appears knowledgeable about fine erb. Taking these two gentlemen for a walk in the fields might appear to be a good idea. Shit, they could offer some insightful pointers. I must caution against these excursions. Even if these men are the erb experts they appear, taking a walk with them may not be in your best interest. They are unfamiliar with the area and may not know where to run if the need arises. Walking with more than two people through a field can attract attention (the greater the number of people, the greater chance of being seen). The more people walking on a trail the larger the trail becomes and thus the greater the chance your trail can be followed by others. Every time you visit the site(s) you are putting the harvest and for that matter yourself at risk. This may be a small or large risk depending on the particular place but remember that no place is 100% safe. Unless it is an emergency situation where the buggy fly has infested your crop, and you are bringing in a specialist to offer expert advice, the site(s) should not be visited by strangers. Having a growing partner is recommended regardless of his or her competence, and even then the site(s) should only be visited to accomplish specific tasks. Trips to the site should occur at the following times.

1. Preparing The Soil:

I suggest buying 40lb. bags of organic potting soil and mixing this in with the existing soil. This soil is not often found at your local all-purpose store so some searching may be required. Potting soil is richer soil than commercial top soil so it goes a little bit farther when mixed with the existing soil. Lime may be necessary in areas with acidic soil and peat moss is a good additive for soils with a clay type consistency. I avoid chemical fertilizers, not just because I believe that organic farming is the best way, but also because toxic waste is produced from the manufacture of fertilizers.

It's also a good idea to put up a two foot high fence at this time. This will keep small animals out and the use of dried blood and/or human hair will fend off deer. Purchase a wire fence with small gaps, 2 inches or less between the metal strands. Collect enough sticks in the area to provide stakes that will support the fence about every 2 feet. Outline the site with the sticks and tie the fence to the sticks with string or wire. Cut the fence endstrand and bend the strands that protrude from the top of the fence out and down the outside to discourage animals from trying to jump over it. Camouflage the fence and site with normal ground debris as necessary before leaving.

2. Planting:

There are different ways to go about planting:

A) The seed intensive method:

This method should only be used if you have an abundance of seeds. The seed intensive method entails planting many seeds in a small area. Its strength is that it can limit risk. When you journey to your newly prepared site(s), the seeds and trowels are hidden in your pockets. Plant the seeds about one half inch deep, unless the soil contains high amounts of clay then only plant seeds one quarter inch in the soil. If you setup small sites 3ft x 3ft square, put in three rows with a seed every one and a half inches. If you work out the Math this is roughly 72 seeds per site. Unfortunately, many growers, especially beginners, do not posses this many good seeds. If a grower creates four sites with this many seeds he or she is almost guaranteed a harvest. Yes, there will be some crowding and this is one of the drawbacks of using many seeds in a small area. Also, figure around 50% of the plants are going to be male so you must return to the site to cut out the males toward the end of Summer. Once the males are removed from the site, the females get more light and aren't as crowded. The seed intensive strategy tends to produce smaller plants because of crowding, but at the same time it helps ensure a harvest every season. In the present day of infrared photography, I believe it is important to have small sites to avoid detection from the air. This of course means growers may have to create a series of small plots in order to garner a year's supply of erb. If you grow merely for hobby, sport, or experimental purposes, than one site may suit you fine.

B) Planting small seedlings:

The strongest argument for this method of planting is that you get the opportunity to select for planting the strongest of the seedlings you've started. The strongest argument against this method is the risk of transporting the seedlings to their intended site(s). Transporting them requires you to find a method of concealing them, usually a box. The problem that then arises is that the size box needed to transport many plants may make this method too risky or totally impractical. The other concern with this method is that there is also the risk of shocking the seedlings when you put them outside in the site where they will be exposed to the harsh Spring weather. Before planting seedlings or sexed females they should be put outside and closely monitored at least three days before planting to become acclimated to the wind and change in temperature.

This method works best when you can set up a small shelter near your sites that is enclosed but not insulated. This shelter can be as small as the site and 18 inches tall or big enough to walk in, providing you have a safe location for such a structure. Starting seeds in this shelter gives the benefit of acclimating seedlings to a temperature much closer to that which they will face when they are planted in the site and it will also protect them from any late Spring snows and/or frosts.

C) Planting sexed females:

The advantage of planting sexed females is obvious; every plant will produce buds. The sex of plants can be determined by growing them until they're four inches high, and then decreasing the amount of light they receive to eight hours. The males are then identified and removed in one to two weeks. This method requires being able to control the amount of light the plants receive each day, and also requires that plants be started indoors earlier than you would normally start (late February - early March). This method allows growers to spread their plants across a wide area in smaller sites and also to hide plants amongst small trees and shrubs. By spreading two dozen female plants throughout a ten acre area in individual sites, a harvest is almost guaranteed, providing that you remember where all the sites are. Growers are encouraged to create a map of their sites to insure against memory loss. Just remember to guard that map closely. Putting anything about your operations in writing puts you at risk.

3. Weeding:

Three weeks after the plants or seeds are in the ground return to remove weeds that are crowding out the kind erb. Three weeks after the first weeding a second weeding should take place. A third weeding is optional, by this time the plants should be large enough to compete with the weeds, however, if you are in a site that has strong weeds around it you may have to cut the weeds back at additional times throughout the year. Remember, weeding does not mean destroying all vegetation within three feet of a plant. Weeds can help hide your crop and protect your crop from hungry animals. Nearby vegetation can also help keep water in the soil from evaporating in the hot sun. So don't go overboard and be very careful, it's very easy to accidently injure small plants or their roots trying to get rid of weeds.

4. Removing Males:

(If you are growing sexed females these trips can be omitted)

Male plants will begin to produce their flowers and pollen as early as mid July for varieties acclimated to this climate. Varieties from more southern climates, may not start until mid September. This difference depends on the budding cycle of your variety, some plants start to bud earlier than others, so the exact time to cut the males will vary with the strain. If you are using a variety of different seeds it may be necessary to visit once a week from July 21 through September 15. The timely identification of a male plant is crucial to the success of the harvest. If the weather is exceptional during the time a male starts producing its flowers and you missed seeing the first signs during your last visit, you could wind up with a lot of seeds and little of the fine erb. A female can either generate a large seedless bud, a large bud with a few seeds, or a large bud that is almost totally seeds. The first case is achieved by removing all the male plants before any of their flowers open. The second case occurs when a few male flowers have opened but you remove them before any more open. The third case occurs when you miss-time the flowering of the male. This can be devastating if you have big female plants because you could loose 90% of the smokable erb to seed production. This last scenario may not always be bad though. If you are short on seeds for the next growing season, it may be prudent to let one or two males stand and fertilize a portion of the females. Good seeds are hard to come by, so if you have a strain you like, make sure to plan ahead and have at least a few hundred seeds for the future. The spotting of males is one of the most difficult of things to explain to a person that's never grown since it really takes careful attention to how the tops of male plants look at this stage of development. Even experienced growers will be unsure at times and will have to wait till the next visit to be sure. When a male enters the stage of flower development, the tips of the branches where a bud would develop will start to grow what looks like a little bud but it will have no white hairs coming out of it.

5. The Fungus:

Along with cops, thieves, animals, and insects, "the fungus" is another obstacle in the path of a successful growing season. When the buds are roughly half developed they become susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. It appears that growing conditions for the fungus are best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. It is a spore type of fungus that travels to other buds via the wind so it is impossible to prevent or stop if weather conditions permit it to grow. If things should go badly and the fungus starts to attack your plants, you must remove it immediately or it will spread to other areas of the plant or plants. Some growers will remove just the section of the bud that is infected whereas other growers will remove the entire branch. Removal of the entire branch better insures that the fungus is totally removed, and also enables the grower to sample the crop a few weeks ahead of time. The main point in removing the fungus is to be very careful. Since it is a spore type of fungus, the accidental jerking of an infected bud will release some of the spores and they could fall onto a lower bud so by the next visit, you might have to pull that bud too. Also be careful in touching the fungus with your fingers because your fingers could pick up the spores and then when you touch the next bud, the spores could cling to it and start eating away at that bud.

6. Emergency Visits:

The Real Estate and Construction Industries have conspired to develop housing near your crop and their "progress" must be monitored. A hurricane or tropical storm with winds over 50 miles per hour has visited your area. A drought takes place. etc. One of the drawbacks of growing outdoors is that you can not control for interference by outside forces. Emergency visits may be necessary but don't go crazy every time there's a bad storm. These plants are strong and can take some punishment.

The Harvest

Performed at night if possible. A nighttime run will limit the chances of someone seeing you. Do the most risky parts, such as carrying freshly cut erb where you could easily be spotted by a passing car, when the police jurisdiction changes shift. This can help ensure that officials do not spot you, and if a nosey nearby resident or passerby calls the police, it may take time before a car is dispatched to investigate. If harvesting at night, use flashlights sparingly so as not to attract attention, and bring extra batteries just in case(the rechargeable kind are recommended). When harvesting more than a couple of plants remember a small pocket knife because it makes the night move quicker. Unless you are planning to use the large fan leaves for cooking, remove them in the field so they don't take up a lot of space. If you have more than one variety of erb that you are harvesting bring various bags to put the different strains of buds in, and I would suggest using backpacks for travel to avoid suspicion and for easy handling.

When to Harvest

The time to harvest depends on several factors: bud development, weather, fungus, and thieves. Some strains mature earlier in the fall than others, depending on the latitude of the globe where the strain originated. You will need to pull Indica varieties in late September and Columbian varieties in late October. The weather may also force you to pull early. If there is a severe freeze heading your way, you are better off not chancing that the weathermen are wrong and pull at least a majority of what you have. Another case for pulling early is if weather conditions are perfect for the fungus to run wild. This will also force you to pull early. And of course if your site has been found or is in great danger of being found, you must pull everything to avoid loosing out on what would otherwise have been a great year. For instance, if you have a site in a corn field or other temporary situation, the harvest must occur at a point in time relatively independent of weather. Also try to find out if and when hunters start to roam the fields.

One other thing to watch for is frost. Even a mild frost can damage plants so watching the weather closely in late September and throughout October is important. If your plants do get damaged by frost the erb is still harvestable so don't give up entirely if you fail to chop before the first frost. If by some freak chance there is a frost in early September and the buds are still very small you may want to allow the damage to occur and then let the buds finish maturing rather than harvesting a small quantity of premature buddage. This type of situation is an on the spot call and you must consider many factors, such as bud size, weather predictions for the following weeks, strain of weed, location of site, etc., before deciding. Indica varieties usually mature sooner than sativa varieties, and the best time to harvest varieties acclimated to the Northeast is from late September to mid October. Those varieties not acclimated to the Northeast, such as Columbian or Jamaican, are best left to late October or even mid November if the weather permits. One other thing you want to avoid is harvesting in the rain. Moisture can lead to problems in the drying process such as molds and fungi. The dryer the plants at the harvest date the better.

As mentioned before, it is important to acquire seeds from strains that can be grown at the latitude you are at, some Mexican or Colombian varieties may not develop mature buds until November and by then the weather becomes harsh. Knowing when your plants will mature is difficult for beginners or growers using new seeds for the first season.

Planning and getting to a good drying location quickly is important so the buddage is not left in bags for longer than a few hours. If the freshly harvested bud remains in bags for too long (12 hours or more), molds and fungus will begin to destroy the erb. Once you get to your drying location you need to prepare the erb for drying. This entails removing excess fan leaves and other larger leaves. However, if the drying spot has a temperature higher than 85 degrees it may be beneficial to leave a few large leaves to keep the buds from drying too quickly. Typical places to dry are attics, closets, dresser drawers, and basements. The best position for a bud to dry in is hanging upside down in a location where air can circulate all around it. If you are fortunate to have a location that you can do this in, great, otherwise use a dresser drawer or some other concealed place. If you dry the buds in dresser drawers remember not to double stack the buds or the weight of the upper layer of buds will cause a flat spot on the buds underneath. Also remember to rotate the buds every day so the erb dries uniformly and you can check for any signs of mold or fungus. If space permits and you are able to retrieve the whole plant, roots and all, you can hang them upside down by the roots, but don't expect this drying procedure to yield higher quality bud. THC does not drain from the roots down into the buds, the THC forms in the resin on the buds. The entire drying process should take place over four to six days depending on the size and variety of bud, the temperature, and the relative humidity of the drying area. If the buds are dried too quickly, the flavor of the erb will become more harsh and the THC level may not reach its potential. If the is dried too slowly then molds and fungi may develop and have a similar effect. With any method of drying, the process must be monitored on a day-to-day basis. Room temperature is fine for drying as long as the humidity is kept low. If drying must take place in a cool damp place then a fan and possibly a heater should be installed to compensate.

The Phases of the Moon

Superior Cannabis gardens are what gardeners want for their efforts, and planting by the phases of the Moon makes this possible. Seeds germinate faster. Plants are hardier and more disease-resistant. They blossom sooner and bear more fruit. Just as importantly, they better resist the stress of harsh weather, drought and insect infestation. Naturally, good gardening techniques must still be adhered to. Gardens need be watered, pruned, mulched, hoed, weeded and fertilized. If you have an outside or in side cannabis garden, paying attention to the Moon phases may be the easiest part of your cannabis gardening experience but the one with the biggest rewards.

Gardening by the moon phases is all a matter of timing. Since we are able to anticipate the phases, we can plan ahead and maximize the connection between the solar system and biological cycles to gain optimum results in the cannabis garden.

The Moon symbolizes emotions, instincts, habits and routine. It describes the ways in which we feel most nurtured and secure. The Moon also reflects the public mood as it changes signs every two to two and half days.

The Moon travels monthly through each of the 12 signs of the Zodiac, staying approximately 2 and a half days in each sign. As it does so it forms an angular relationship with the Sun that we call a Phase of the Moon. Phase actually means the angle between Moon, Earth and Sun. Moon orbits the Earth and the Earth orbits the Sun. It is the Earth's orbit that defines the ecliptic which is divided symbolically into the Zodiac.

First of all, phases occur in two stages - Waxing and Waning. The Moon is Waxing - growing - during these phases: New Moon | Crescent Moon | First quarter Moon | Gibbous Moon

It is Waning - shrinking - during these phases: Full Moon | Disseminating | Second Quarter | Balsamic

As a general rule of thumb when the Moon is waxing, plants develop leaves and above ground systems, when it is waning plants develop their root systems. Planting leafy crops such as cannabis that grow above ground are best sown at waxing moon and those that will require strong root systems or grow below ground should be sown after full moon, in the waning phase.

We can now divide these phases into four quarters.

        New Moon to First quarter

        First quarter to Full Moon

        Waxing Full Moon to Second quarter

        Second quarter to New Moon again. - Waning

These 4 phases can be useful to apply the rule of thumb Plant | Feed Harvest|Destroy If you get these 4 main quarters fixed, you will go a long way to understanding cycles.

The 4 intermediate phases also form a quaternary of activity.

    Crescent

    Gibbous

    Disseminating

    Balsamic 

Crescent moon phase is when the best germination occurs and is a good time for thinning out seedlings to give room for the rapid growth that occurs at the next phase. Gibbous moon phase is when there is a greater uptake of nutrients from the soil, and swelling of fruits. Disseminating moon is an excellent time for seed setting and ripening. Balsamic phase is the best time for destroying weeds, pruning trees, and all preparation for the next cycle.

It is important to note that you should not do any gardening task at the exact time of a phase. Wait a few hours. Each of the exact phase positions marks a critical time as the moon makes a shift from one phase to the next.

Because the Sun stays in a sign for a full month there are some months that are better for certain gardening tasks than others. Interfacing the Sun cycle and the Moon's cycle takes a little skill but is not 1 difficult once you apply the logic.

If the Sun is in a 'fertile' sign for a month, then you should take advantage of that month to do some gardening - naturally the best results occur when the Moon is also is a fertile sign and the correct phase with the Sun. The best days for doing specific tasks will depend on the Moon's sign. To synthesize the phase with the sign is important in planting. There is no point in planting at the correct phase, if the Moon is in an incompatible sign - one which might damage or inhibit growth.

Remember the Sun stays in a sign for approximately a month, the Moon passes through all 12 signs in a month, so stays in a sign for approximately 2 and a half days. A new moon always occurs when the Sun and Moon are in the same sign. A full moon occurs when the Moon is in the opposite sign to the Sun.

FERTILIZER  AND PLANT ABUSE

There's a good chance that this bud was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.

Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutriet burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this here, then the plants are probably just fine.

Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. The find the cause of the high nutrient levels.

Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.

Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.

Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.

As seen in figure 10 consumption of nitrogen (N) from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowing is 100% normal.

Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.

With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.

Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.

Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Figure

Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.

Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.

Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.

Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.

Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.

Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.

Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.

Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.

Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.

Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.

Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.

Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction.

Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.

Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.

Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.

Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.

Cobalt

Female and Feminized Seed

     During the 1960's and 1970's some cannabis breeders took to experimenting with Colchicine.  Colchicine, a powerful mutagen for both man and beast, stops cell duplication, while the cellcore duplication continues the same.  The end result is a doubling or more of the chromosome set.  This treatment can be beneficial to cannabis because it enforces many properties such as higher production of thc and resistance to disease.  What also resulted, when gender chromosomes doubled, is that male or female chromosomes appear manifold, called Hermaphrodites.  What's the plant to become?  It becomes all at once.  The result is called feminized or effeminate seed.
     Genetically, a cannabis plant is more or less predisposed to become male or female.  This is regulated by 2 chromosomes everyone knows as the X and Y chromosomes.  A plant with 2 XX chromosomes becomes female.  A plant with an X and Y turns into a male.  Plants have hormones that regulate it's functioning, of which gender is one of those functions.  The hormone balance is genetically determined, and partly influenced by environmental factors.  An example is when plant roots get damaged.  The roots will produce a substance that in turn slows down leaf growth.  The result is male flowers.  When discussing hormone balance you get FEMALE SEED: a female is a plant with XX or only female chromosomes.
     When you have a seed with just X chromosomes, you are certain this seed will grow into a plant that is genetically female.  To achieve the XX only plant: a female plant is forced by a hormone called Gibberellic Acid  to produce male flowers, the pollen created contains only X chromosomes, when you offer this pollen to another female plant you can be absolutely certain to get seeds which are 100% XX.  Once again this seed is called FEMALE SEED.  Gibberellic Acid can be found in online.  It takes years for an individual to achieve the proper plant hormone manipulation to get 100% female XX seed.  Supplies therefore fluctuate and there are many different strains available worldwide.

Cannabis Nutrient Disorders

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  Nutrients Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.

      *NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots.

          NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
 causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
  deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is
dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.

               --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   The above text is excerpted from George Van Pattens' excellent book "Gardening: The Rockwool Book".

Key on Nutrient Disorders

1)  a)  If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to    #2.
     b)  If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10.  If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2)   a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably.                                           >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
      b) If not, go to #3.

3)   a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted.  Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
      b)  If not, go to #4.

4)   a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
      b)  If not, keep reading…

5)   a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small.                          >>   Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
       b) If not, go to #6.

6)   a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft   >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
       b) If not, go to #7.

7)   a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >>   Over-fertilization (too much N).
       b) If not, go to #8…

8)    a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
        b) If not, go to #9.

9)     a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
        b) If not, go to #10...

10)   a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
        b) If not, #11.

11)   a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
        b) If not, #12.

12)   a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
        b) If not, #13.

13)   a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
         b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.

Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies

   Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

   Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since cannabis uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

   Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are:  baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

   Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

   Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

   Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.

   Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
 

   Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is
"hard," usually due to too
   many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more
than around 200ppm (parts
   per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants
have a chronic problem. Ask
   your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH,
TDS, and mineral levels (as
   well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area.
This is a common request,
   especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular
water filters will not reduce a
   high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and
de-ionizers will. A digital TDS
   meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool
for monitoring the nutrient
   levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.
They run about $40 and up.

   General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of
thumb is to use more
   nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact
opposite during the flowering
   period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of
course is the same ratio as
   20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding
nutrients. If you use a reservoir,
   keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for
TDS levels is as follows:
   seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants =
400-800 ppm; large plants =
   900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These
numbers are just a guideline, and
   many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain
nutrients are "invisible" to TDS
   meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual
nutrient levels. When in
   doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for
feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or
   radish plants nearby for comparison.

   PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5
(in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) .
   Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at
a high pH (alkaline) above
   7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in
acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap
   water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic
matter in them tend to get too acidic,
   which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy,
and generally the more you pay
   the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from
aquarium stores are inexpensive,
   but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a
waterproof one. You won't regret it.

   Other Things…

   Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas,
   don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the
plant will be able to take cooler
   temps than it otherwise could.

   Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled,
dry, and look burnt, mimicking a
   nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you
hold it at the top of the plants.
   Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be
kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F
   (33) if you add additional CO2.

   Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is
usually fine.

   Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower
the humidity and
   increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves,
wherever they are. Keep your
   garden clean.

   Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

   Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright
lights, causing small white,
   yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some
sprays can also cause
   chemical reactions.

   Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the
wrong kind of light.. Don't use
   regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis.
Invest in fluorescent lighting
   (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for
   good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

   Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or
the stem may not be firmly
   touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much
fertilizer can shrivel or wilt
   clones - plain tap water is fine.

Cannabis Nutrient And Deficiency Table

To use the table just match up the plants symptoms with those on the table. Nutrients that are shaded Red are the problem. Find that nutrient in the text below the table for the remedy.

NITROGEN (N)

Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P)

Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K)

Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca)

Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S)

Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg)

Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe)

Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn)

Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B)

Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb)

Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn)

White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION

Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.

Trouble Shooting Health Problems

Health

Use this chart to help you determine the possible causes for whatever strange problem you seem to be having. Don't forget that your problem may not necessarily be a lack of any particular nutrient, the issue is often availability. High pH can prevent plants from absorbing vital nutrients. Extreme humidity may cause leaves to remain tissue paper thin. Take small steps in your attempts to balance your nutrient solution. It is better to under-feed your plants than to overdose them. Try adding about half of a recommended concentration as you experiment. You can always add more later.

10 Biggest Mistakes Growers Make....

 Hydroponics is harder to over water because rockwool has such excellent drainage properties. As long as the rockwool cubes are not sitting in liquid it is virtually impossible to over water a hydroponic setup. A hydroponic setup could either be watered constantly as the drip method, or once to three times a day as in the flood and drain method.

2. Don't Tell People

Why? They will only be jealous. People love to feel important and that is why they will tell other people; because others will listen to them.
 Keep it to yourself.

3. Touch/kill Germinating Seeds

Please have some patience. It sometimes takes 10 days for a seed to sprout. The paper towel method is not recommended because you must handle the seeds when transferring them from the paper towel to your growing medium.

4. Grow seeds from seeded cannabis

One of the greatest disappointments known to the growing man.
90% of what the final product will be is in the seed's genetics and has little to do with the environment the plant is grown in.
Many get their hands on the seed and think they have a gold mine. They will probably grow something like this: hermaphrodites, tall late flowering females coupled with early flowering males. This is because the only pollen that could have produced the seed was from a hermaphrodite or a very stunted and late flowering male the grower did not notice. Unless you are prepared for possible disappointment don't use "unknown" seeds. This is why people buy seeds from seedbanks.

5. Don't Over fertilize.

Fertilize after first 2 spiked leaves appear follow the label. DON'T FERTILIZE EVERY TIME YOU WATER!!!
Start with 25% and work your way up!
Leach the plants with lots of pure water every 2-4 weeks. Organic growing is recommended. Its tastes better and burns much better.
If the leaves suddenly twist or fold under, Leach and Spray with pure water for several days!

6. Don't Under fertilize

Under fertilizing is less common but it happens. If you are one of those people that likes to give the plant just enough nutrients make sure you use a organic soil mixture with blood meal and bone meal or some slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients.

7. Don't Start with Clones. (I personally don't agree with this, I use clones and cuttings)

Start with seeds. Bugs are a pain, So are plant diseases. Many growers are able to grow indoors without pest problems for years. If they do get pests they are probably not enjoying the change from their usual diet to cannabis resin! But as soon as you come in contact with others grow material (cuttings) it is almost guaranteed that its from a long time grower that has many different pests all eating cannabis and bug spray (and surviving) for hundreds of generations!... Think about it.

8. Don't Start Too Early Inside or Outdoors

For several reasons! If you are starting outdoors June 1 is perfect. But if I start earlier I will get bigger buds right? Probably Wrong!
Its strange but usually true. ill explain. Plants started in early spring will get big but they will take significantly longer to start flowering. This is because at the peak vegetative period they sense the light cycles getting longer and longer, until June 21. But they don't realize that its time to flower yet. Finally in the middle of August the plant says "HEY" "time to flower already" and it produces buds in August and September or later they will be tall as trees but thinner buds due to the fact that the sun is not as strong in September. Now if the ganja plants were put out later, as soon as they get a foot off the ground they say "what's going on" I am just in early veggie and the light hours aren't getting longer in fact SHORTER" Then the plants go crazy and since the sun is so bright in July and August you get amazing 6 foot trees that are heavier than the plants started in April!!!  in addition to finishing earlier the late started plants are not nearly as noticeable.

Indoors is the same for different reasons. The light cannot penetrate more than a foot or two. So flower when plants are a foot tall. If you wait longer because you want bigger yields, you will get smaller yields and wait longer for them.

9. Don't Provide A Bad Environment.

Always provide air circulation and fresh air even during the night cycle is fine. All the air indoors should be replaced every 5-10 minutes.
Humidity between 30-70% temp aim for around 75-85'  Even seedlings need a gentle fan to strengthen the stems.

10. Don't Harvest Too Early.

I know its hard. You see the buds and resin forming at a rapid rate. The buds are potent and you feel tempted to chop em down! The only problem is that another 25% of the weight will form in 2 more weeks. Wait until the plants have totally stopped growing and the white pistils are at least 50-75% brown.
*NOTE: Outdoors if security is a factor make your own call on when to sacrifice the fields. Also take buds continuously in case of thieves.

                                                                  HYDROPONICS

HYDROPONICS 101

You should have some experience growing simple plants then start growing hydroponically. You need a little experience before you start hydroponic cannabis growing.

When you move to Hydro it gives way better yields than other traditional soil growing methods.  It also shortens grow times from start to finish. In hydro you concentrate to maximize your operation by taking advantage of all that makes cannabis crops turn out a maximum yield, like light, nutrients, co2 ventilation, and good cannabis seeds.

Maybe use both hydroponic and soil growing methods to view the difference first hand.

Keep it a secret. Don't let anyone know you're growing cannabis. The best way to get shut down is to tell people.

You will save time in the cannabis grow cycle. Hydroponic cannabis growing takes a few less weeks than growing cannabis in soil. You'll be smoking buds way quicker. The cannabis flowers tops will also be bigger and juicier. Start to flower the cannabis plant at about 2 feet tall and during the flowering cycle it will grow twice as big. You don't really have to wait for a 6 foot tall plant. 4 plants can get you 1/4 pound dried and cured bud, but you also need to be using good yielding strains this means good cannabis seeds.

Hydroponic growing requires some form of inert growing medium to support the plant, protect the roots from sunlight and to keep the root moist at all times.

The most important thing to remember when growing in hydroponics is:

1. Watch and adjust the pH level so that it always stays within the 5.5 to 6.8 pH range, optimum pH is at 6.3 - 6.5, and you should know that the natural tendency in hydroponics is an increase in the pH over time as plants use up nutrients, so you have to watch it and adjust it with either pH Down or Up chemicals which come in dry powder or wet liquid forms.

2. Change the hydro-water and re-supply the water with fresh nutrients (properly mixed) for whatever stage your plants are in every 10 days or so.

3. Root tissue should not be allowed to get too cold or too warm, maintain the nutrient solution at a minimum temp of 50 F at night, and 70 F during the day when the light are turned on, HID lighting produced heat, unlike fluorescent (which we do not recommend), yes you can grow under them, but you will need a lot of them.

Unless you live in an area where the Police routinely fly over to check for heat spots, not a big deal, HID lights are also more efficient then any other available human made artificial source of light, and since you want to give it the best light to maximize your operation, you go with that, and that's that.

Supply the correct lighting for the stage that you are in, and try to move air over your canopy to bring in fresh oxygen. I would stay away from buying CO2 bottles, instead you can buy Carbon in a liquid form and apply it directly to the roots on the plants by mixing it into the hydroponic water. CO2 bottles can bring unwanted attention to you, as you have to have them re-filled.

Start with a single net pod system and play around with it and experiment, once you outgrow it, you'll know everything that is needed to make a kit and then you should be able to plan a larger kit to hold maybe 4-10 or more plants. If you have no imagination and are low on technical skills, go to the hydroponic store, pull out your cash and buy a nice kit.

Aside from the outrageous growth and size, hydroponic plants are healthier. Produce grown hydroponically can contain up to
300% more nutrients than soil grown produce.

Grow Hydroponic Today

We are already seeing a push for more earth friendly farming practices, higher yield gardening and self sufficiency. Possibly in the future each family will, by necessity, have to grow at least a portion of their own food. Hydroponics fits into the scheme of these things because of its high yield/low space nature. A 10'x10' hydroponic greenhouse can easily provide a family of 4 all of it's produce - year around.

                                                              How to Build Your Own Cannabis Hydroponic Garden

How to Build Your Own Nomadic, Cannabis Hydroponic Garden On a Limited Budget

Written, Maintained and posted occasionally to rec.gardens and alt.hemp by Jeff Burchell (burchell@cats.ucsc.edu)

Introduction:

These are plans to make a fairly portable, and very inexpensive water culture (advanced hydroponic) system. These plans only explain how to make the garden itself, and do _not_ explain how to use/maintain it. If you plan on using this garden, you should get yourself a good book on hydroponics, and look it over (especially the parts about what nutrient solutions to use, your garden vareity Miracle-Gro won't do the trick).

Disclaimer:

I am intentionally leaving out those parts about plant nutrition, light cycles, etc. so as not to appear to be writing a guidebook for growing cannabis. It is also to make you seek out _another_ source of information so your knowlege of hydroponics comes from more than just this file. I do not grow cannabis, and never have. I'm just a high-tech home gardener with information to share. If you are caught growing cannabis while using the system described herein, don't even think of running to me, I didn't tell you to grow cannabis. In fact, I'd suggest planting a crop of cherry tomatoes, which can be fooled into producing fruit indoors year round, and is a very easy plant to start hydroponics with.

Materials: 1 5-10 gallon bucket
2 Pieces of PVC or ABS pipe, 8-10" long, 5" or greater diameter.
4 Caps for PVC/APS pipe ends.
1 waterpump capable of about 50 Gallons Per Hour (you will need a bigger pump if you choose to make this a larger system)
4' of hose that will fit the waterpump (often 3/8")
1 TEE joint (or Y-splitter) that fits the water hose
4 clamps for the water hose (one for pump to hose, and 3 for hoses to TEE fitting.)
1 Airpump, airstone, and some airline from a fish tank.
1 Can White epoxy based spray paint
1 Can Black Epoxy based spray paint

1. Everything must be made light tight. Paint all hoses, the bucket, the PVC/ABS (which will be called PVC from now on) and the lid of the bucket with a layer of black paint. Let it dry overnight, and then cover it with a layer of white paint (to make it reflective, and reduce the temperature of the nutrient solution).

2. Take each of PVC pieces and drill a 1" hole in the side, about one inch from the end. Then epoxy the caps onto the ends of the PVC.

3. Drill the inlet/outlet holes (these should be located on the caps of the PVC), See diagram

                                               +------ 1" hole
                                               V          here
                ------------------------------  ----
   Outlet ---> |                                    |
    hole       |                                    |
               |                                    |
               |                                    | <-- inlet
                ------------------------------------      hole

The inlet hole should be as low as possible (as close to the wall of the PVC), and the outlet hole should be as high as possible)

4. Now cut two 5" holes in the sides of the bucket (close to the top), and epoxy the PVC in place, so about 2" of pipe (and the outlet hole) are inside the bucket, and the 1" hole is facing straight up.

5. oxygen into the nutrient solution, and not to dissolve CO2. CO2 can kill rootsystems. If you are growing outside, or not enriching CO2, then the pump can sit anywhere.

6. Place the waterpump in the bottom of the bucket (assuming it is a submersible one) and attach a hose to it. long enough to reach the top of the bucket. Cut a hole in the lid of the bucket for this hose to go through. Then attach the TEE fitting to the hose. Now attach hoses to the free ends of the TEE, and run them to the inlet holes on the end of the PVC pipes. Use clamps on the TEE fitting and on the pump itself, but use epoxy to attach the hoses to the PVC. This seal must be completely water tight. Let them dry for 24 hours.

7. Put some water in the bucket and turn on the pump. What should happen is the PVC pieces will fill with water, and then when they are full, they should begin to continuously drain out the outlet holes, and back into the bucket. If you are getting leaks anywhere, fix them immedately. If water is coming out of the 1" hole on the top of the pipe, then either your pump is too strong, or your outlet hole is too small. Fix one or the other.

8. Empty the system (hint, remove the hose from the pump to drain the arms), and replace the water with some form of hydroponic nutrient solution (look in a hydroponics book for details on what exactly to use, or visit a gardening store, and ask)

9. Place your plants into the system. The best way I have found to do this is to take a 1 1/8" garden hose and cut a 1" tube off of one end. Then slit the tube down one side. Wrap the stem of your plant (just above the roots) with polyester fluff (available at aquarium stores, for stuffing into external water filters) and then wrap the garden hose around the fluff. Then force the hose into the hole at the top of the PVC arm. People also have used rubber stoppers.

10. Turn on the air/water pumps, and let your garden grow.

Comments:

This is obviously just a small setup, but these plans can easily be modified for much larger systems, using longer pieces of PVC, or more than one pair of arms, and a larger bucket to hold the nutrients (I've seen one made with a 55 gallon drum, and 8 seperate arms, each holding 4 plants)

I personally use this setup indoors (under a skylight in my apartment) to grow 2 cherry tomato plants. What you do with your own garden is your own business, and Obviously I can't be held responsible if you choose to grow anything illegal.

Starting Seeds:

This system is not for seeds. Either purchase small plants, or start your seeds in a pan of vermiculite, flooded with 1/2 strength hydroponic nutrient fluid. When they are about 4-6 inches tall, they are ready to be moved to the system. Remove them gently from the vermiculite, using clean water to get every last chunk off of the roots. Then wrap the stems in polyester fluff and garden hose (see above)

Nomadic, Clandistine, Hydroponic Garden

I've been exploring hydroponic gardening lately, and thought y'all might be interested in hearing about my setup:

Materials -> 1 Footlocker or trunk, bigger is better.
1 Rubbermaid dishpan that just fits on the bottom of the trunk, when the trunk is turned on its side (this will make more sense in a few minutes, I used a 12 quart one)
3-4 blocks of FLORAL FOAM (Preferably agricultural grade, as it does not have preservatives in it, but Oasis will do if it is completely rinsed/soaked first)
1 Muffin Fan (look in computer surplus stores)
1 50 WATT High Pressure Sodium lamp (Or your lamp of choice)
1 roll of tin foil

Comments on Cost ->

If you bought all this stuff, it would run about 100 bucks... However, I got my trunk at a yard sale for $5, had the fan lying around, and through some creative scrounging on a public bike trail late at night, came up with the HPS lamp and ballast for free. The dishpan came from a 'Everything's a dollar' store, and foam is cheap... I think I spent $30 total (including fertilizer, which I will discuss later)

What to do with this stuff->

First, cut the handle off of one end of the trunk, then stand the thing up on that end. Sitting it on a phone book with the door hanging off the end makes it much easier to open and close.

Then install the fan... I put mine on the top of the box, but It could go in the top back corner if light leakage is important. A good deal of light will be exiting the fanhole (well, more than anywhere else)... keep this in mind. I also painted the fanblades white in an attempt to reflect the light back into the box, but Im not sure if it worked... it probably isnt necessary.

Put some intake holes along the bottom of the box, these will be covered with foil later, so not too much light will be leaking out.

Cover the entire inside of the box with foil, excluding the fan area, and where you plan on installing the lamp. I used duct tape to affix it to the walls/door, and I LEFT IT UNATTATCHED AT THE BOTTOM so air could come through the intake holes.

Install the lamp! I put mine at the very top center of the door, with the bulb sticking straight out, so it enters the rest of the box when the door is closed. This made it easier to wire, but In the future, I would put it on the back wall of the box, as less of your room will be illuminated when you open the thing (it's kind of like opening up the sun).

Thoughts on Lamps-> According to Ed Rosenthol (believe him if you want to, ignore him if you dont) HPS lamps are some of the best growing lamps made, especially when efficiency is an issue. These lamps give off an amberish glow, and are often used to light parking lots, bike trails, etc. They operate on a very high voltage, and require a transformer or ballast to work. Metal Halide lamps (used in photographic and theatrical lamps) are smaller, and much whiter, and usually do not require ballast, but they use up a hell of a lot more energy

I used a Flurescent to sprout the plants, and switched to HPS after they had developed 3 sets of leaves (about 48 hours after germination) This was acceptable.

Next, it is time to deal with the foam and plant. I soak the foam overnight in a nutrient-water mixture (more on that later) after rinsing it extremely well. Then I cut a brick or 2 into 1" cubes, and plant one seed in each cube. Planting in foam means you place the sead on the foam, and push it in with a small wire or something similar, so the seed is surrounded as much as possible by the wet foam. The cubes are placed in the dishpan, and 1/2" of water-nutrient mixture is added to the pan. The foam wilt yet, no do I especially care. I just plant a LOT of seeds, and then use the best seedlings for my gardening. Usually a smoking-buddy or someone will take a free cannabisseedling off your hands with a minimum of hassle.

About 3 days after germination, a few pairs of leaves should've formed. Now is the time to transplant. And transplanting is the glory of foam. All you need to do to transplant things growing in foam, is put the small block of foam (with the plant in it) on top of the larger block , and rub them together a few times. The roots will grow out of the small cube, and into the bigger one in a matter of days. I managed to find foam in 12" cubes... cutting these in half gave me 2 pieces of 12"x12"x6" foam, and each of those can easily hold one plant, probably 2. I personally grow only one plant in each trunk, but 2 smaller ones are probably perfectly acceptable.

Lighting-> When I transplant is when I turn on the HPS lamp. It then stays on for 24 hours/7days until the plant is 8-15 inches tall. Then it is time to force flowering. This can be done by giving the plants a 10-16 hour dark period in each 24 hour day (this should be done using a cheap timer like people use when they go away on vacation in an attempt to foil burglers) In a matter of 3 weeks, sex should be apparent on the plants... REMOVE THE MALES. Keep the dark period constant until it is time to pick, dry and enjoy.

A word on water-nutrient mixtures->

Floram foam should be totally inert, meaning it does not provide the plant with ANYTHING except something for the roots to grow in. Thus all nutrients that the plant would get from the soil MUST be in the water. Read a few books on hydroponics to figure out what mixture suits you best, I personally use a liquid plant food that shows on its label an N-P-N count of 10-15-10. This seems to work fairly well for me. I know people who use 20-20-20, and quite a few who use different foods during different stages of growth. Read up on the subject and decide for yourself.

Anyway, this was not ment to be a 'HOW TO GROW WEED' type of post, but apparently it has become one (sort of). It was ment to talk about my grow room, as it was described earlier in this post. I have found that a single plant can grow to maturity without any trouble in this space, and 2 smaller plants (forced to flower at about 8 inches, instead of the 10-12 that I personally use) would probably be ok too.

This grow room is very portable (unplug it and take it with you) clandestine (it looks like a trunk to me (not an uncommon thing in a college dormatory if you are a student), and it can be locked with a padlock) and effective (trust me!)

I assume one could grow using standard soil and such in this thing, but I have had great success with foam, and it is much easier to keep it watered. Rockwool has been sugested to me as a medium, but I dont even know where to buy it... apparently it is much like foam in that it is inert, and transplanting is a breeze.

Introduction to Hydroponics

If you've ever grown a backyard tomato, or kept a coleus alive through the winter, you have all the expertise you need to grow plants hydroponically. Quite simply, hydroponics is the method of cultivating plants without using soil. The plants are grown in a non-nutritive medium, such as gravel or sand, or in lightweight, man-made materials such as perlite, vermiculite (a mineral-mica nutrient base), or Styrofoam. Nutrients are then supplied to the plants in one of two ways: either by soluble fertilizers that are dissolved in water, or by time-release fertilizers that are mixed into the medium.

The advantages of a hydroponics system over conventional horticultural methods are numerous and varied. Dry spots and root drowning do not occur. Nutrient and pH problems are largely eliminated, since the grower maintains a tight control over their concentration. There is little chance of "lockup," which occurs when nutrients are fixed in the soil and unavailable to the plant. Plants can be grown more conveniently in smaller containers. And, because there is no messing about with soil, the whole operation is easier, cleaner, and much less bothersome than it would be with conventional growing techniques.

Most hydroponic systems fall into one of two broad categories: passive and active. Passive systems, such as reservoir or wick setups, depend on the molecular action inherent in the wick or in the medium to make water available to the plant. Active systems, which include the flood, recirculating drip, and aerated water systems, use a pump to send nourishment to the plant.

Most commercially made "hobby" hydroponic systems designed for general use are built shallow and wide, so that an intensive garden with a variety of plants can be grown. However, most cannabis growers prefer to grow each plant in an individual container. Indoors, a three-gallon container is adequate. Outdoors, a five-gallon (or larger) container should be used if the water cannot be replenished frequently. Automatic systems irrigated on a regular schedule can use smaller containers, but all containers should be deep, rather than shallow, so that the roots can firmly anchor the plant.

Passive Hydroponic Systems

Active Hydroponic Systems

HYDROPONICS, THE BASICS

The most important thing for you is to realize is that Hydroponics should be easy. It is easier for the home grower to grow Hydroponically than in soil and that’s a fact! This is the reason for this booklet. In this booklet I hope to show you how easy, how inexpensive, and how satisfying Hydroponics is. Simply there is no easier way to grow, house plants, ornamental plants, vegetables such as tomatoes, lettuce, beans, fruit, root crops such as potatoes, carrots, onions, flowers such as roses and carnations, bulbs, vines, trees, orchids, herbs, anything in Hydroponics. To my knowledge, there is nothing that is grown that cannot be grown using hydroponic techniques.  In Europe they call Hydroponics, “soil-less culture”. This is in fact, the best possible way to describe what we do. We take away the nutritional control of soil, by using a balanced liquid containing 99.9% water, and 0.1% of the Minerals found in soil. Instead of soil giving out some nutrient whenever it can, Hydroponics gives the right amount all the time. Hydroponic nutrient is totally organic (in terms of not artificial or synthetic compounds), except the minerals are mined from the ground and are then balanced to exact proportions, so your plant will get exactly what they need, nothing more, and certainly nothing less! In fact if we could take the perfect soil and dissolve it, we would have exactly what a nutrient solution is, totally natural, but under your control.

Apart from nutrients, the most important thing we do in a Hydroponic growing design is make sure the plants have access to Oxygen. Basically, this means that they are not growing in water so they drown, but have a supply of air around their roots. I will explain more about this shortly.

The burning question in your mind should be:-

How do I get started in Hydroponics?

This is the question I most want to answer in this book. I will discuss the major systems and hopefully lead you to the conclusion that Hydroponics is EASY.

To get started in Hydroponics is as simple as deciding what system will best suit the plants I wish to grow? This question determines the type of system.

The systems described further on explain whether they suit small plants like lettuce and herbs with smaller root systems or larger plants like tomatoes and cucumbers with larger root systems, short term crops like lettuce or long term crops that will be in the system for more than 3-4 months.  Remember, plants such as tomatoes can be harvested and removed, from short-term systems, before they clog up the system with roots, but some crops will be harvested for long periods. E.g. flower and cannabis crops may cut without the actual plant being removed. These can be an extreme example, of a long-term crop, but their roots could be trimmed, or plants replaced with young seedlings instead of re-cropping.

We’ll discuss more with each system.

THE FIVE BASICS

1.      LIGHT

Light is the energy that creates life. Life cannot exist without it, and cannot thrive without enough of it. Plants process up to 5,000 foot-candles of light intensity to get the energy to grow. The sun is around 1,000,000 foot-candles.  Shade can be lower than 1,000 foot-candles.

Plants will enjoy much light, but some do not like all the heat put out by sunlight. Shade cloth is ideal for hot conditions, also to keep plants from, insects, wind, rain and other damage, but rarely is the requirement for low light levels.

Sunlight is an ideal source of light for plants. It is bright and contains the Reds and Blues necessary to produce good healthy growth. However it also has infrared, Green and Ultra-Violet light.

The infrared light or heat is absolutely necessary or we would all freeze to death, but it can be too little or too much heat. Too little heat is best combated by using a recirculating hydroponic system. By heating the nutrient in the tank, and pumping the 20 to 25C nutrient around we can keep the plants warm.  Excess heat in summer, can be alleviated by cooling the tank, usually by aerating the tank heavily. By using a venturi, a water jet, or having the nutrient rising and falling into the tank like a waterfall will cool the nutrient as it passes through the air.

It is not necessary to worry about green light as it is usually reflected off the leaves, making them look green. There is some evidence that shows that a reduction in Ultra Violet (or UV) light can improve growth. If you are growing under glass or plastic this may interest you.

We generally grow outdoors, so just use common sense. If you’d feel hot or cold in the sunlight, then the plants would feel that too. Plants tend to grow well in the same climate as humans feel comfortable.  A great way to grow is under artificial horticultural lights that will allow more control, and less damage from the elements, but that is a decision you can make. What I can tell you is that, a 400-Watt plant light, costs very little to run, but the benefits are, faster growth (from up to 18 hours of light per day), more control of the seasons through day length, less pest problems, no wind, rain and less cold problems. But you may need an exhaust fan to ensure good air circulation and no heat build up in warm climates. (See Appendix on Artificial Light)

RULE: A PLANT GETS ALL ITS ENERGY FROM THE LIGHT IT ABSORBS THROUGH ITS LEAVES. LOWER THE LIGHT LEVELS AND YOU REDUCE THE GROWTH RATE.

2.      OXYGEN TO NUTRIENT RATIO

Oxygen keeps a plant’s roots healthy and allows the plant to take up nutrient.  Oxygen is the key to growth rate. Without oxygen around the roots, the roots will rot and die. You cannot grow in water, unless you dissolve oxygen in it. The recommendation is that you do not grow in water, just feed enough nutrients to keep the roots moist, with access to oxygen. The 5 systems I have described in this book will have varying degrees of oxygen according to their design. The oxygen level or the oxygen to nutrient ratio is the key to success.

RULE: PLANTS CANNOT TAKE UP THEIR NUTRIENTS UNLESS OXYGEN IS PRESENT. THE MORE OXYGEN, THE FASTER THE UPTAKE OF NUTRIENT.

3.            NUTRIENT STRENGTH

Assuming you have a commercial brand of nutrient made by a good Australian company such as Accent Hydroponics, Growth Technology or the like, you will get excellent consistency in the nutrient. Always use a 2 part A&B style nutrient where possible. Nutrients must be solely designed for Hydroponics. Soil fertilisers require bacteria to break down more complex elements into useful ones. They are likely to be less soluble, not pH adjusted, and are usually too slow to release the necessary elements to be suitable for Hydroponic systems. Plants may grow for a little while in Hydroponics using soil fertilisers but they generally exhibit minor mineral deficiencies, then develop major deficiencies, until even changing to a Hydroponic nutrient can not correct the disorders. Soil fertilisers normally kill hydroponically grown plants, but not overnight. Certainly they will never produce as nature intended them to if you do not supply the right amount of minerals in a soluble form.

There are a range of companies offering a grow (High Nitrate) nutrient and a bloom (high Potash) nutrient. Neither will MAKE a plant do anything. You can use these formulas to approximate the nutritional requirements of your plants. When growing, a plant generally takes more nitrates, and during flower production and/or fruit production, plants generally increase their potash and phosphate uptake, but lessen their need for nitrates. However, in cloudy, overcast or short days of the year, the plants will take up more potash and phosphorus due to lower light levels, and on sunny, long, cloudless days the plants nitrate uptake is greater. Sounds confusing? It isn’t really. Most manufacturers put an excess of everything into their general-purpose nutrients. But when in doubt, ask a store. Also, when people tell you an imported nutrient is better, don’t believe them, unless they’ve tested a good Australian nutrient with a growth additive like Superthrive, Budwiser or Organic Growth Promotant (OGP). They will find out smartly, that these nutrients only grow a bit better because of the Americans and other countries put small amounts of hormones or vitamins into their nutrients - and imported nutrients cost more! Use Australian nutrients, and to boost growth, add a good plant hormone and Plant Vitamin treatment to the nutrient. You will be amazed!

Once you have a good brand of nutrients, mix exactly to directions. Less is better than too much. Less will make a plant grow faster, but more stretched, and leafy than normal. More will create a compact plant that hardly grows upward but is extremely bushy, woody, but can be a heavy bearing fruiter/flowerer.  If nutrient strength is strong or weak to the extreme, this will lead to deficiencies or death. E.g., too strong, and calcium is deficient because the plant is not taking up nutrient fast enough. If the nutrient is too weak, it is the same deficiency, but due to insufficient calcium in the nutrient. Follow directions and ask a store what to do. Nutrient strength can be read and adjusted by electronic conductivity meters.  Ask your store what a conductivity meter will cost. (See also Appendix on advanced nutrient control through CF adjustment)

RULE: THE NUTRIENT CONTENT AND STRENGTH GOVERNS HEALTH, HEIGHT, LEAF AND FLOWER PRODUCTION, AND ALL GROWTH ASPECTS.

4. NUTRIENT pH (ACIDITY AND ALKALINITY)

pH is the level of acidity or alkalinity of the nutrient solution. Think of it as sweet and sour. Most nutrients in town water will be within the range of 6 to 6.5 pH. ALL PLANTS GROW IN THIS RANGE IN HYDROPONICS. Anyone who tells you otherwise, is either horticulturally trained in soil only or is reading materials drawn from soil based research and is therefore untrained for plant nutrition in Hydroponics. I extend my apologies to Horticulturists. Some of you do understand the nutritional simplicities of Hydroponics, but 4 years of soil training is hard to overcome, research into Hydroponics is still new, and soil nutrition is not suitable for the simple Hydroponic plant.  If recycling nutrient, pH and Nutrient strength can change as certain elements are taken in by the plant. All you have to do is change the nutrient for fresh nutrient as often as possible, or adjust to the correct reading with a set of meters. If the nutrient is too sweet or too sour, the plants will develop deficiencies. I will discuss manual care, electronic adjustment, and computer control later. As discussed in water purity - pH must be checked if you are using rain, dam, bore water or any other source than town supply.

RULE: pH IS THE KEY TO KEEPING PLANTS FEEDING ON THE CORRECT ELEMENTS, AND KEEPS THEM FROM DEFICIENCIES.

5. TEMPERATURE AND FRESH AIR

Optimum temperature depends on the plants. Generally, Phosphorus up-take is severely impeded below 15 degrees Celsius, so that’s our bottom temperature. It is recommended to heat the nutrient if it is below 15 degrees Celsius for more than 4 hours per day. Maximum temperatures are, (as a guide) around 30 degrees Celsius but as long as it is well below the temperature where humans start to sweat the plants should be all right.

Use common sense. If the plants are in 20-25 degree temperatures and 40-60% humidity, then it is likely that you would feel comfortable where the plants are. By coincidence, plants tend to grow best in climates approximate to human comfort. So if you visit your plants and it feels like a blast furnace, or a freezer, it is likely they would benefit from some attention on the matter.  Fresh air is absolutely essential in shade-house, tunnel-houses, glasshouses and grow-rooms, as the Carbon Dioxide the plants breathe is essential for every plant process. Poor ventilation will kill plants, as surely as poison. You will notice ventilation problems by the better growth near vents, doors, or fans. If plant growth is more sluggish away from these areas, then you should improve your fresh air, or use Carbon Dioxide enrichment systems to add CO2.

RULE: PLANTS NEED CARBON DIOXIDE IN EVERY PLANT PROCESS. THEY NEED FRESH AIR, NOT TOO MUCH HEAT OR THEY CANNOT PROCESS DUE TO WATER LOSS AND NOT TOO COLD OR THEY CAN’T GET THEIR FOOD.

Plus one other basic:

WATER PURITY

Town water is generally suitable for Hydroponics, but if you are using bore water, spring water, dam water or rain water, you may have to check to see if this is suitable.

What problems could occur, is the salt content of the water, may be too high, the zinc content from metal (zincalume) tanks, could make it toxic for plants (even though it may be still safe for us to drink), as well as any number of chemicals, poisons or fertilisers, could be contaminating the water supply.  Please speak to a Hydroponic Company about the water supply if you are unsure.

In all the above cases, pH control of nutrients is required.

However town water is generally fine.

Now we have looked at common sense approaches to growing conditions, we can identify 90% of problems and correct them. Let’s have a look at the five systems!

Cannabis Hydroponics Systems

1. Hand Watered Bucket
2. Water Culture System
3. Ebb and Flow System

		HAND-WATERED BUCKET This inexpensive system is one of the Professor's favorites. It is probably the simplest hydroponic system on the planet. Simple yet effective, we have seen very impressive results achieved with this easy to build system. The series of holes that ring the bucket are about 1 1/2" inches above the bottom, this makes a small reservoir of nutrient solution in the bottom that will be wicked up to the plants roots by the capillary action of the growing medium. Cannabis hydroponic systems are perfect for large plants, it can easily handle a single tomato or pepper plant or a couple of smaller plants like lettuce or herbs. NOTE: With large plants you may need to supply external support to help hold the plant upright. Cannabis hydroponic systems can be automated with the use of a separate reservoir, submersible nutrient pump, a short cycle timer (one that can be set to come on for as short as a minute), an air pump & airstone as well as a little bit of drip irrigation tubing. (See drawing on left)
Cannabis Hydroponics Materials Required: 5 GALLON BUCKET (or equivalent water tight plastic container). Make sure that the bucket doesn't have any leaks in the bottom, it is important that the bucket holds water up to the point of the overflow holes.. GROWING MEDIUM - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well. FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN (optional) - A small amount of window screen is handy to put over the overflow holes that you must drill in the bucket, this helps keep the growing medium from falling out. CANNABIS HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular "dirt" fertilizers do not contain essential "micro-nutrients". pH TEST KIT *- You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution. ASSEMBLY OF CANNABIS HYDROPONIC SYSTEM Drill a series of holes in a CLEAN plastic bucket approximately 1 1/2" (4 cm) above the bottom of the bucket. The number and size of the holes is not critical, usually 6 to 10 holes (3/8" or 1/2" in diameter) is enough. NOTE: Holes smaller than 3/8" seem to plug up easily. The larger the hole the more likely that you will need step # 2 below. Very large holes will dry out the growing medium quickly. Optional: From the inside of the bucket place window screen over holes. (you can hold the screen in place as you add the growing medium, or you can glue the screen in place with a small amount of silicone sealant, wait for silicone to cure before adding growing medium). NOTE: The screen is just to keep the growing medium from falling out. If you don't mind a little mess, or if your holes are relatively small, or your growing medium stays together well you can skip this step. Add the growing medium to the bucket. (NOTE: you will need to wash and / or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system, depending on the type of growing medium that you are using.  Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium. NOTE: The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedling(s) to the system. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS Hand Water Version Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. An easy way to mix the nutrient is to use a one gallon milk jug and mix a gallon at a time, however it can be convenient to mix more than a gallon at a time, you can use another 5 gallon bucket (or similar plastic container). If you mix large amounts at a time it is recommended that you aerate the surplus nutrient solution with an aquarium type air pump and airstone to keep the solution from stagnating. Storage container should have a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. Slowly add the pH adjusted nutrient solution to the bucket until you see some excess flow out of the overflow holes. Repeat step #6 periodically as needed. This will vary due to weather conditions and the size and type of plant(s). Knowing when and how much to water requires a little trial and error. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS Automated Version Fill the reservoir with water and mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium.  Attach the drip line to the submersible pump and put the pump into the reservoir. Plug the pump into the timer. Set the timer and plug it into the outlet. NOTE: You will need a short cycle timer that can be set for short periods of time. A digital timer from a home center usually will work as they can be set to come on for as little as one minute. A good starting point to set the timer is to come on for one minute once or twice a day. Put the drip line so that the nutrient solution runs out at the base of the plant.

WATER CULTURE SYSTEM Convert an aquarium into a simple hydroponic system. The plants are suspended on a floating Styrofoam platform. This cannabis hydroponics system is popular for classrooms because the roots of the plants are visible hanging below the floating platform.

Materials Required:

	AQUARIUM - Any water tight container with fairly vertical sides will work. Light breaks down the nutrient solution and encourages algae growth so if you us an aquarium you will need to construct a light shield out of cardboard or aluminum foil to keep light out of the reservoir (aquarium). If you wish to view the roots make the light shield (or part of it) removable.
	FLOATING PLATFORM - You will need a piece of Styrofoam 1 1/2" to 2" thick. Cut Styrofoam to fit loosely inside the aquarium (or whatever you are using for a reservoir).
	PLASTIC CUPS - Use several small plastic or Styrofoam cups to hold the plants on the floating platform. (NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, but you can use any small plastic cup as long as it has tapered sides).
	GROWING MEDIUM - You will need a small amount of growing medium, enough to fill the plastic cups. (NOTE: The Professor recommends using Perlite or a perlite / Vermiculite mix for the growing medium).
	AIR PUMP AND AIR STONE - You need to use an air pump and airstone to oxygenate the nutrient solution. A regular air pump designed for an aquarium is all that is required.
	HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality cannabis hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular "dirt" fertilizers do not contain essential "micro-nutrients".
	pH TEST KIT * - You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution.

ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM

1. Cut the Styrofoam float to fit the reservoir. Cut the float a little smaller than the opening so that it won't bind up when the water level changes.

2. Cut the holes in the float to the proper size for the plastic cups that you are using, you want the bottoms of the cups to hang below the bottom of the float but not fall through. (NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, these require a 1 7/8" to 2" hole.

3. Cut several holes (aprox. 1/8"  to 1/4" dia.) in the bottom of your plastic cups. Add growing medium to the cup (NOTE: if the growing medium falls out through the holes you can put a small piece of fiberglass window screen or small piece of cloth over the holes before adding the growing medium.

4. Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium.

CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS

5. Fill the aquarium (reservoir) with water. Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant.

6. Attach 1/4" airline to the air stone and place airstone in reservoir. Attach free end of tubing to air pump and plug in air pump to outlet, make sure that there are bubbles coming from the air stone. (NOTE: NEVER submerge the air pump in water as electrical shock could occur).

7. Place floating platform on top of the nutrient solution. Put plastic cups into the holes in the floating platform.

8. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.

9. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

		EBB & FLOW SYSTEM (FLOOD AND DRAIN) This cannabis hydroponics system uses two 5 gallon buckets (or equivalent), one filled with growing medium and the other holds the nutrient solution. The plants are watered by lifting the bucket containing the nutrient solution, this allows the nutrient solution flows into the bucket containing the growing medium and Plant(s). To drain, simply lower the nutrient bucket and gravity drains the nutrient solution back into the reservoir (see drawing on left).

Materials Required:

2 - 5 GALLON BUCKETS (or equivalent water tight plastic container). Make sure that the buckets don't have any leaks.

GROWING MEDIUM - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well.

FLEXIBLE VINYL TUBING - You need a length of flexible tubing long enough for the buckets to be moved as in the drawing above (3 or 4 feet is usually enough).

	FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN - You will need a small amount of fiberglass window screen (12" x 12"). You will need a small amount of fiberglass window screen (12" x 12").
	GRAVEL - You will need enough gravel to cover the bottom of your growing container approximately 2 or 3 inches. Use a fairly coarse gravel ( 3/4 to 1 inch diameter). NOTE: A 5 gallon bucket needs about a gallon of gravel to reach this level.
	HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality cannabis hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular "dirt" fertilizers do not contain essential "micro-nutrients".

pH TEST KIT *- You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution.

ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM

1. Drill holes in the CLEAN plastic buckets on the side approximately 1/2" above the bottom of the bucket. NOTE: The size of the holes will depend on the size of the tubing that you use. We suggest that you use 1/2 " i.d. tubing,for this you will need to drill a 1/2" hole.

2. Insert tubing into the holes of both buckets approximately 2". Test the assembly for leaks by placing the buckets side by side and filling with water. (NOTE: The tubing should fit tightly so that their are no leaks, if you do have a leak from where the tubing connects to the bucket you can seal it from the inside of the bucket with some R.T.V. "Silicone" sealant, if you use silicon follow the directions on the packaging and allow the sealant cure overnight before proceeding to step #3).

3. Empty the water out of the assembly and place the gravel into the bottom of one of the buckets. This will be the Planter, the other bucket will be the reservoir.

4. Place the window screen over the top of the gravel. Fold the excess over or you can trim the screen with a pair of scissors. The screen acts as a filter to keep the growing medium in place. So try to fit the screen as close to the sides of the bucket as you can. You don't have to have a perfect fit, but the better the screen fits the less growing medium will get washed into the reservoir when you drain the system during the "Ebb" cycle. In fact if too much growing medium gets through the screen it can actually clog the fill/drain tube.

5. Add the cannabis hydroponic growing medium to the bucket. (NOTE: you will need to wash and / or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system, depending on the type of growing medium that you are using.

6. Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the cannabis hydroponic growing medium. NOTE: The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedling(s) to the system.

CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS

7. Put the planter on the platform* and leave the reservoir in the "lowered" position.

* TIP: If you don't have a platform there is an easy way to make one: Stand two standard masonry blocks on end and place a board big enough to hold both buckets on top.

8. Fill your reservoir with water and mix the nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH of the nutrient solution and adjust accordingly (NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. Cover the reservoir with a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. It is a good idea to aerate the nutrient solution with an air pump and air stone to keep it from stagnating.

9. To feed and water your plant(s) simply lift the reservoir bucket and set it on the platform next to the planter bucket. Wait a few minutes and then lower the reservoir back down. CAUTION: a full 5 gallon bucket weighs about 40 pounds, if you can't lift that much make smaller amounts of nutrient solution.

10. Repeat step #9 periodically, how often you need to do a watering cycle depends on several variables, size and type of plants, type of growing medium, weather conditions, etc., making watering cycles a bit of a guessing game, however with this type of system it is hard to over water so when in doubt...DO IT.

11. Check the pH of the nutrient solution every couple of days and adjust if needed.

12. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.

13. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch (as per step #8 above). Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

CANNABIS HYDROPONIC PRINCIPLES

All plants, weather grown hydroponically or in soil, need 16 basic elements to grow. Most of us are familiar with the top three that are consumed by plants. These elements are called the Macro-Elements and they are Nitrogen Phosphorous and Potassium, they are abbreviated N P K. You probably have seen these letters on bags of common fertilizer. The other 13 elements are grouped together as the Micro-Elements. Most people are not familiar with these elements because we have always counted on them being present in the soil, which works for the most part.

Pre-Formulated Nutrients: This is really the best option for the hobby to small farm hydroponic grower. You can be assured that all of the necessary nutrients are present and available to the plants. All you have to do is mix a predetermined amount of concentrate with water and add it to your system. If you want to be successful as a first time hydroponic grower, use a ready made nutrient specifically for hydroponics.
Pre-Formulated Nutrients come in the forms of 1-part powders, 2-part powders, 1-part liquids, 2-part liquids, & 3-part liquids. I have found that nutrients are pretty much nutrients, with the exception of the General Hydroponics 3-part flora series. This one nutrient system really stands out above the rest, it gives the best results by far. You can customize the mix for specific crops and different phases of the crop (i.e. one mix for vegetative growth and another for flowering/fruiting phases of growth).

Formulating your own: Once you have some experience with hydroponics and you are producing large crops of a specific plant, you may want to look into formulating your own nutrients. Since all plants do not consume the same amounts of nutrients (individual elements) you can possibly save yourself some money by making very specific formulas for your crop. This involves a good amount of chemistry knowledge, some lab equipment and each of the 16 individual elemental nutrients. Many crop specific formulas exist from others' research, all you have to do is find the right recipe and mix it up. Over time you will probably adjust this formula to match your growing conditions and crop more closely. Mixing your own is best left to the more experienced who are producing large amounts of one crop (i.e. 1/4 acre on up).

Miracle Grow: Many people insist on trying to use miracle grow plant food as a hydroponic nutrient. It is true that this is great stuff for soil, I personally use it on my flowers, grown in the dirt garden, and man do they freak out. Let me stress though, this stuff is not a complete nutrient for hydroponics. It does contain some micro elements, but not all. Your plants will start out fine using this, but eventually they will suffer from deficiencies. In the long run it is not worth the cost savings over a real hydroponic nutrient. The analogy would be something like buying a brand new corvette and then having the cheapest tires put on it and filling up with the cheapest gasoline. You will not even come close to getting the performance that is possible.

There are quite a few hydroponic additives on the market. They mainly consist of combinations of kelp extracts, bone meal and blood meal. They are commonly sold as "Organic" boosters just to hook the "green" crowd. They are supposed to supply enzymes, hormones, vitamins, amino acids, sugars, and plant acids that can't be supplied by hydroponic nutrients. I believe that there are some merits to using these additives, but many of the claims made by these products are UNFOUNDED and UNTRUE. I have tried the "Earth Juice Catalyst" and I THINK that I saw a performance increase, but nothing major. In the future I will perform an experiment with a control group of plants to see how this stuff really performs.
One additive that falls in it's own class is the "DynaGRO PRO-TEEKT". It is a potassium and silicon supplement that is supposed to help increase resistance to pathogens, increase resistance to heat stress and build stem strength. I have yet to try this product.

The bottom line on additives: There are no scientific studies showing any benefits so the jury is still out. Buyer beware!!

 

pH is simply the measure of the acid content of a solution. The pH scale runs from 1 to 14, 1 being very acidic, 7 is neutral, and 14 is very basic. pH affects the ability of a plant's roots to absorb nutrients. The range in which nutrient absorption is best is from 5.8 to 6.5.

Measuring pH: You can measure pH either chemically or electronically. Chemical test kits cost about $8 to $18, they are accurate but you have to replace them periodically because the chemicals are consumed. Electronic methods typically are packaged as a pen that you simply dip into the solution and the pH is read out on a digital LCD display. pH pens cost about $65 to $100, they are fairly accurate and must be calibrated periodically. The benefit is ease of use and they don't wear out - a wise investment.

Adjusting pH: To lower pH add acid. The best acids to use are phosphoric, nitric, and sulfuric acid, these acids disassociate and free up phosphorous, nitrogen an sulfur respectively. Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Sulfur are all elements that plants need for growth. I have heard of people using Distilled Vinegar for pH adjustment, this seems a bit sketchy to me but I suppose it would word in a pinch.
To raise pH add a base. The bases used in hydroponics are Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide. These disassociate and provide Potassium and Sodium, respectively. Another pH up "elixir" that I have heard of is baking soda - personally I think this is a bad idea.
 

TIP! When adding acid or base to adjust your nutrient solution, add small amounts at a time and wait about 1/2 hour to take a measurement. The closer your pH is to 7, the less acid or base it takes to effect change. This change takes place exponentially, for example: it can take two milliliters of acid move the pH of 25 gallons of nutrient from 7 to 6. From 6 to 5 it can take 8 milliliters, from 5 to 4 it can take 500 milliliters. BE CAREFUL and make changes slowly.

Making your own pH adjusting solutions: One quart of acid or base from General Hydroponics retails for about $7.00. This is the biggest rip off in the hydroponic business! It takes about $10.00 of concentrated acid or base to make 2000 gallons of pH adjusting solution. Subtract packaging and shipping and you'll see that they turn $10 into $4000. OUCH!!!!!
 

With the relatively recent green movement the concept of "Organic" food production rings louder and louder every day. "Organic" guidelines generally prohibit the use of any refined chemicals in food production. The result is fertilizers derived from compost and animal waste.

Naturally people want to try to apply these principles to hydroponics in the form of a teas made from compost and other natural ingredients. This seems logical but the result is counter productive when used in a hydroponics environment. To understand why, we must first understand what nutrients are and how they are absorbed by plants.

Plants rely upon sixteen basic chemical elements for food - Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Hydrogen, and Oxygen are just a few. These elements must be in a form that can be absorbed by a plant. This form is a chemical salt - a very basic chemical compound containing one of the sixteen elements and a complementary element that forms a salt. These "elemental" salts are what is absorbed from the soil by a plant's root sysetm. To be perfectly clear here - it is salts and only salts that a plat absorbs, nothing else.

So, the big question is - In the natural"organic" cycle of things how do these chemical salts get into the soil? Let's start with organic material (compost) and follow it to absorption by the plant. A bit of compost contains complex organic chemical chains that contain the elements for the chemical salts that eventually will be absorbed by a plant. At this point these complex chemicals cannot be used by a plant. When the compost gets mixed into the soil it starts to be acted upon by soil born bacteria. This bacteria is what breaks the organic material down into the chemical salts that can be used by plants.

 

Mother Nature uses bacteria to refine organic material into inorganic chemical compounds for plant absorption. In a hydroponic system sufficient bacteria are not present for this critical conversion, instead we must provide these refined chemicals directly to the system.

For those who insist that they can do it "organically" there are some "organic" nutrient mixes available for you to try. They typically produce limited results that I believe is entirely counterproductive to the hydroponic philosophy. I suggest that if you want to grow organically, do it in the dirt. Heavily supplement your soil with natural fertilizers and you will get excellent results. I do this in my own dirt garden and everything grows wonderfully.

The first thing we need to do is establish a basic vocabulary about light & lighting. I'll describe the terms and try to put them in as plain of English as possible. Next, we need to establish reference points to work from. Finally we will examine different artificial lighting systems.

 

Lumen: This is the basic unit of light. If you could grab a bunch of light in your arms, the term lumen would describe the amount of light that you have. Since this is the description of the TOTAL amount of light, it would go to follow that if you stuffed that light (the ball that you had in your arms) into a jar, the amount of lumens you have is still the same. Conversely, if you let the ball of light expand to fill the room the amount of lumens is also the same.

Foot Candle: This is the basic unit of light intensity or how much light you shine on a given area. The foot candle is based on how many lumens of light you shine on a given area (measured in square feet). An example would be: If you shine one lumen of light on one square foot - you get one foot candle. If you shine 10 lumens on one square foot - you get 10 foot candles. Light intensity is what really counts for plant growth. This is the term that you need to understand, for we will be talking about it the most.

Watt: The watt is a unit of energy that is commonly applied to electricity. We will be using this term in relation to artificial lighting.

Lumens per Watt: This is relation to artificial lighting. Lumens per watt refers to how many lumens of light that a bulb generates per watt of electrical usage. The higher the ratio, the more efficient the lighting system will be.


 

Outside Daylight: This is the biggy! Direct outside daylight in the summer time is somewhere in the neighborhood of 10,000 foot candles. This is equal to 10,000 lumens per square foot. If you already know a little bit about lighting, you will find this really amazing. If not, as our discussion continues this will eventually hit you as amazing.

Overcast Daylight:1,000 foot candles.

Open Shade: While standing under a large tall tree, you experience the amount of light referred to as open shade. The light intensity you experience here is somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 foot candles.

Deep Shade: 50 to 100 foot candles.

Average Lit Room: 5 to 10 foot candles.

Full Moonlight: .02 foot candles.

Starlight: .00011 foot candles (that's 11 one-millionths )

Now is this amazing or what? The human eye is mindboglingly sensitive, it can see from daylight all the way down to starlight (one of my hobbies is astronomy and I have found that after your eye dark adapts you can see quite well under the starlight). This is a ratio of 90 million to 1! Even more amazing is the fact that the eye can make the bulk of this adjustment in a fraction of a second. The rest happens in about 20 minutes.

Having brought this to light, you can understand how it is easy to come to the conclusion that an unknowingly unsuitable light source would actually seem bright enough to grow plants under by looking at it.


 

Now we will review the major lighting systems, their efficiency, and examine how they perform in a horticultural situation. If, per chance this discussion gets too technical or boring you can skip to the end of this segment and look at the overall comparison chart to get a general idea of how different lighting systems perform.

Basis for Calculations:In all of the following examples we are going to assume that the efficiency of the lighting system is 75%. In other words, only 75% of the light created by the bulb is reflected onto our example garden. Furthermore, we are going to greatly simplify things by assuming that all of the light aimed at our target area actually hits the area - there is no "spillage" so to speak. In practice results will be much different - typically much lower than the stated figures. The idea of this presentation is to communicate the practicality of different lighting systems by placing them on common ground (which really doesn't exist) and comparing them to one another.

Incandescent: Incandescent lighting is your common everyday household light bulb. Their efficiency is in the range of 4 lumens per watt. This means that a 100 watt bulb will generate 400 lumens - TOTAL. (Here's the big leap) Now, if we COULD reflect all of that 400 lumens onto 1 square foot we would get a light intensity of 400 foot candles. It is really not practical that we could design any reflector system that is 100% efficient, so for the purposes of our discussions we will assume 75% reflectance for all of our lighting systems. If we account for the loss in reflectance, we now get 300 foot candles from an incandescent bulb focused on one square foot.

Lets step back here and do a comparison.... 300 F.C. Compared to 10,000? Wow! we aren't even close to daylight.

If we used one 100 watt bulb over a 4 foot by 4 foot garden the light intensity would be 18.75 F.C., Which is totally useless. If we wanted to shoot for 500 F.C. for growing low light plants, we would need 26 - 100 watt bulbs. If we wanted to shoot for 1000 F.C. we would need 53 - 100 watt bulbs over our garden. Aside from the electrical nightmare, we have succeeded in creating an easy-bake-oven instead of an indoor garden. I hope that you see that incandescent light bulbs are truly impractical for horticultural purposes.

Quartz Halogen: Halogens do a lot better at and efficiency of about 20 lumens per watt. Halogens are available in 1000 watt bulbs and since we are trying for as much light as possible, we'll use this for our example. A 1000 watt bulb producing 20 lumens per watt give us 20,000 lumens of total light energy. Our hypothetical light fixture can only reflect 75% of this, so we now have only 15,000 lumens to work with. Our sample garden, 4 foot by 4 foot, has 16 square feet. When we shine our 15,000 lumens onto 16 square feet of growing area we get a light intensity of 937 foot candles. No we're getting into a useable range but, there is one major drawback to halogens.....HEAT. Halogens produce a disproportionate amount of heat in comparison to their light output. Let's look for something better.

Fluorescent: Since we are trying to be educated gardeners, we will have sought out the extra high output tubes for our garden. These Fluorescent tube generate 2750 lumens per 40 watt tube. That's 68 lumens per watt - now we are getting somewhere. Let's use enough fixtures to cover our 4x4 garden. The fixtures are 4 feet long by six inches wide. This allows us to cram 8 fixtures over our garden - using a total of 640 watts. Each fixture hold 2 tubes, so we have a total of 16 tubes generating 2750 lumens each - that's a total of 44,000 lumens. Subtracting for the loss due to reflectance, we now have 33,000 lumens to cover our garden with. 33,000 divided by 16 square feet equals 2062 foot candles of light intensity, ASSUMING the lights are right on top of the plants. When you raise the lights to accommodate for the plants the light intensity drops rapidly. When you double the distance, you cut the light intensity by four times - OUCH. Using an array of 16 - 40 watt tubes you can expect to achieve about 500 foot candles at a distance of 12 inches. With this setup we can grow low to medium light plants without burning them.

Metal Halide:This is what we have been looking for. Metal halide lights have an efficiency range of 80 - 120 lumens per watt. This let's us use a lower input wattage, generates more light and less heat than all of the previous systems. The following table shows the different wattage bulbs, their efficiency, total light output, and the light intensity over a 4 foot x 4 foot garden.

 

Many people choke over the initial cost of a High Intensity Discharge fixture, but in the long run they are much cheaper. For the same amount of light output M.H. uses 2-20 times less power than other light sources.

Sodium Vapor: The king of efficiency! Sodium vapor lights output from 90-150 lumens per watt. Sodium bulbs put out more light than metal halides but the spectrum is severely shifted towards the red end of the spectrum. The effects of the reddish light are supposed to produce more flowering and fruiting than more balanced lights.

 

As you can see by the table, sodium vapor wins the light intensity contest hands down.

 

The diagram above shows the full range of light and where each type of lighting system falls within that range. Artificial lights produce just a slice of the full range. This leads to much discussion and experimentation to determine which, or which combination of lighting is best for a particular crop.

Lets establish a reference point to work from, examine several types of lighting and put this information to practical use.

Reference point: For most of the daylight hours, the outside daylight peak is centered on 5500 degrees Kelvin (refer to the above chart).

Metal Halide: These lights emit a light on the bluish side of the spectrum. They are considered a grow light and it is considered that they produce a more stalky vegetative type of growth in plants. These lights are commonly used throughout all phases of plant growth and produce excellent results.
 

Agro Sun Halide: Agro Sun is a hybrid halide bulb that generates extra red light for flower and fruit production. This is considered to be the best choice for artificial lighting of plants.

Sodium Vapor: Sodium vapor lighting is way down in the red. There is some indication as well as a lot of marketing hype that the spectrum produced by these lights promote flowering. Personally, I'd like to see a scientific study to verify this.

Hydroponic Garden Set Up

This covers the hardware to get started. These are plans to make a fairly portable, and very inexpensive water culture (advanced hydroponic) system. These plans only explain how to make the garden itself, and do _not_ explain how to use/maintain it.

Materials:
1 5-10 gallon bucket2 Pieces of PVC or ABS pipe, 8-10" long, 5" or greater diameter.4 Caps for PVC/APS pipe ends.1 waterpump capable of about 50 Gallons Per Hour (you will needa bigger pump if you choose to make this a larger system)4' of hose that will fit the waterpump (often 3/8")1 TEE joint (or Y-splitter) that fits the water hose4 clamps for the water hose (one for pump to hose, and 3 for
hoses to TEE fitting.)1 Airpump, airstone, and some airline from a fish tank.1 Can White epoxy based spray paint1 Can Black Epoxy based spray paint
Instructions:
Everything must be made light tight. Paint all hoses, the
bucket, the PVC/ABS (which will be called PVC from now on)
and the lid of the bucket with a layer of black paint. Let
it dry overnight, and then cover it with a layer of white paint (to make it reflective, and reduce the temperature of
the nutrient solution).
Take each of PVC pieces and drill a 1" hole in the side,
about one inch from the end. Then epoxy the caps onto the ends of the PVC.
Drill the inlet/outlet holes (these should be located on the
caps of the PVC),
The inlet hole should be as low as possible (as close to the
wall of the PVC), and the outlet hole should be as high as
possible)
Now cut two 5" holes in the sides of the bucket (close to the
top), and epoxy the PVC in place, so about 2" of pipe (and
the outlet hole) are inside the bucket, and the 1" hole is
facing straight up.
Place the airstone in the bottom of the bucket, and find a
place for the airpump. If you are planning an indoor garden,
with enriched CO2 in the air, then the pump should be OUTSIDE
of your enclosure. The idea of the pump is to dissolve
oxygen into the nutrient solution, and not to dissolve CO2.
CO2 can kill rootsystems. If you are growing outside, or not
enriching CO2, then the pump can sit anywhere.
Place the waterpump in the bottom of the bucket (assuming it
is a submersible one) and attach a hose to it. long enough to
reach the top of the bucket. Cut a hole in the lid of the
bucket for this hose to go through. Then attach the TEE
fitting to the hose. Now attach hoses to the free ends of
the TEE, and run them to the inlet holes on the end of the
PVC pipes. Use clamps on the TEE fitting and on the pump
itself, but use epoxy to attach the hoses to the PVC. This
seal must be completely water tight. Let them dry for 24
hours.
Put some water in the bucket and turn on the pump. What
should happen is the PVC pieces will fill with water, and then when they are full, they should begin to continuously
drain out the outlet holes, and back into the bucket. If you are getting leaks anywhere, fix them immedately. If water is
coming out of the 1" hole on the top of the pipe, then either
your pump is too strong, or your outlet hole is too small.
Fix one or the other.
Empty the system (hint, remove the hose from the pump to
drain the arms), and replace the water with some form of
hydroponic nutrient solution (look in a hydroponics book for
details on what exactly to use, or visit a gardening store,
and ask)
Place your plants into the system. The best way I have
found to do this is to take a 1 1/8" garden hose and cut a
1" tube off of one end. Then slit the tube down one side.
Wrap the stem of your plant (just above the roots) with polyester fluff (available at aquarium stores, for stuffing
into external water filters) and then wrap the garden hose around the fluff. Then force the hose into the hole at the
top of the PVC arm. People also have used rubber stoppers.
Turn on the air/water pumps, and let your garden grow.
Comments:
This is obviously just a small setup, but these plans can
easily be modified for much larger systems, using longer pieces of PVC, or more than one pair of arms, and a larger bucket to
hold the nutrients.
Starting Seeds:
This system is not for seeds. Either purchase small plants, or
start your seeds in a pan of vermiculite, flooded with 1/2 strength hydroponic nutrient fluid. When they are about 4-6
inches tall, they are ready to be moved to the system. Remove them gently from the vermiculite, using clean water to get
every last chunk off of the roots. Then wrap the stems in polyester fluff and garden hose.

Marijuana Seeds

Choosing which marijuana seeds to grow will depend on many things, not least what type of marijuana you actually prefer. Some careful reading will make the selection much more rewarding. Some marijuana seeds are engineered to be grown indoors, some seeds outdoors.

Beginner or experienced

Some strains of marijuana are much harder to grow than others. Similarly, some have been engineered to be easy to grow, resistant to pests and can handle a lot more stress. The less experienced the grower, the more important it is to choose an easy strain to grow.

Indica and Sativa seeds

Marijuana seeds basically fit into two categories; Indica and Sativa. Breeders will often cross strains to change the growing or properties of the originals. The reason to do this is different for each cross strain. Sometimes it is to increase the yield, sometimes to increase the potency. It can also be used to strengthen the plant and to achieve a more consistent result.

Indicas tend to be shorter, stockier plants which have smaller, denser and much smellier buds. Indicas also flower much earlier than Sativas, usually with a 6-9 week flowering period. Sativa strains will grow much bigger and the buds will be less compact.

Below are some of the most popular marijuana seeds available. If you click on the buy marijuana seeds link it will take you to a seed bank which offers them. Also check our main page as some varieties are stocked by more than one company.

Most popular types of marijuana
White Widow Marijuana Seeds	Big Bud Marijuana Seeds	Bubblegum Marijuana Seeds	Hollands Hope Marijuana Seeds
White Widow is one of the world's favorite marijuana strains.	Big Bud is another classic type of marijuana and a winner of the cannabis cup.	The Bubblegum marijuana strain is also a multiple award winner. Has a bubblegum taste.	Hollands Hope is a perfect outdoor plant. It has a sweet flavor and medium strength and comes highly recommended.
Ice Marijuana Seeds	Northern Lights Buy Marijuana Seeds	Purple Power Marijuana Seeds	PPP Marijuana Seeds
Ice is one of the new types of Marijuana. It has won awards and is highly crystalline.	Northern Lights is one of the best known strains around. Very popular for indoor growing.	Purple Power is a uniquely purple plant which grows well in cool climates.	PPP is popular with commercial growers. It's a high yielding type that is mostly sativa.
Marijuana Strains A-Z
Afghan Marijuana Seeds	Aurora Indica Marijuana Seeds	B52 Buy Marijuana Seeds	Big Bud Marijuana Seeds
Afghan is a well known indoor/outdoor strain with high levels of THC.	Aurora Indica is a short bushy plant. A cross of Afghan and other Indica strains.	B52 is a fast flowering skunk strain with a sweet taste.	Big Bud is another classic type of marijuana and a winner of the cannabis cup.
Blue Mystic Buy Marijuana Seeds	Bubblegum Buy Marijuana Seeds	Buddha Buy Marijuana Seeds	Californian Skunk Buy Marijuana Seeds
With Californian origins, Blue Mystic produces heavy buds with a blue tinge.	The Bubblegum marijuana strain is also a multiple award winner. Has a bubblegum taste.	Buddha is a dutch passion favorite and popular in Amsterdam coffee shops.	Californian Skunk is a high yielding marijuana strain with orange taste.
Citral Buy Marijuana Seeds	Crystal Marijuana Seeds	Durban Poison Marijuana Seeds	Early Bud Buy Marijuana Seeds
Citral is another coffee shop favorite and is one of the sweetest tasting types of marijuana.	Crystal marijuana is a cross of White Widow and Northern Lights. Quite easy to grow.	Durban Poison is perfect for hotter outdoor climates. Sweet with an uplifting high.	Early Bud is an early flowering white strain of marijuana.

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Playlist Results for growing marijuana

How to grow marijuana

How to grow marijuana

• I Grow Chronic! 3of9 (Marijuana hydroponic grow room setup)
• I Grow Chronic! 2of9 (Marijuana hydroponic grow room setup)
• I Grow Chronic! 4of9 (Marijuana hydroponic grow room setup)

by kanjitard | 23 videos

How to grow marijuana

23 videos

Featured:

Playlist by: kanjitard

2:25

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Sanford and Son - Growing Marijuana

Sanford and Son - Growing Marijuana

They find marijuana growing in the garden.

by Ray8286 | 1 year ago | 96,856 views

Sanford and Son - Growing Marijuana

2:25   June 15, 2008

Comedy

Ray8286

They find marijuana growing in the garden.

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96,856 views

4:45

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how to grow marijuana indoors buy growing marijuana outdoors for beginners purple haze seeds

how to grow marijuana indoors buy growing marijuana outdoors for beginners purple haze seeds

this is the best way to learn how to grow weed....if you want see more video,how to grow weed click on my web...dori22.com is the best way to ...

by perandori22 | 6 months ago | 61,662 views

how to grow marijuana indoors buy growing marijuana outdoors for beginners purple haze seeds

4:45   October 27, 2009

Sports

perandori22

this is the best way to learn how to grow weed....if you want see more video,how to grow weed click on my web...dori22.com is the best way to ...

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61,662 views

7:25

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Growing Weed Basics-Tipf for Growing Marijuana Outdoors-even good Tips for Indoor ...

Growing Weed Basics-Tipf for Growing Marijuana Outdoors-even good Tips for Indoor ...

Get your Stuff @ www .bongobong. de with fastest delivery, cheapest prices & best products

by BongsBest | 7 months ago | 41,846 views

Growing Weed Basics-Tipf for Growing Marijuana Outdoors-even good Tips for Indoor ...

7:25   October 05, 2009

Education

BongsBest

Get your Stuff @ www .bongobong. de with fastest delivery, cheapest prices & best products

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41,846 views

2:45

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Marijuana Growing at home. What do you think?

Marijuana Growing at home. What do you think?

This is of my legally growing plant, I have a cannabis card. I don't recommend growing to anyone where it is prohibited, but I would be pleased to ...

by MrCannabusiness | 11 months ago | 11,525 views

Marijuana Growing at home. What do you think?

2:45   May 26, 2009

Education

MrCannabusiness

This is of my legally growing plant, I have a cannabis card. I don't recommend growing to anyone where it is prohibited, but I would be pleased to ...

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11,525 views

2:09

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Growing Marijuana by Limbo following UPDATE WEEK 7

Growing Marijuana by Limbo following UPDATE WEEK 7

This video is make for home growers of cannabis plants to show my setup and my way of growing. There are a lot of different grow systems, but this ...

by limbolimbo68 | 1 year ago | 59,835 views

Growing Marijuana by Limbo following UPDATE WEEK 7

2:09   March 13, 2009

Science & Technology

limbolimbo68

This video is make for home growers of cannabis plants to show my setup and my way of growing. There are a lot of different grow systems, but this ...

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59,835 views

0:50

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Wild growing Marijuana

Wild growing Marijuana

A field of Marijuana growing wild in Austria.

by IamAphish | 3 years ago | 536,376 views

Wild growing Marijuana

0:50   February 07, 2007

Entertainment

IamAphish

A field of Marijuana growing wild in Austria.

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536,376 views

weed growing videos

weed growing videos

• A start to finish growing guide to indoors marijuana to smoke bud
• Hydroponic Marijuana Growroom (2nd Crop)
• Detecting female & male marijuana plants

by rampageflx3 | 54 videos

weed growing videos

54 videos

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Playlist by: rampageflx3

4:27

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Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - CO2 Basics

Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - CO2 Basics

Adding CO2 to your grow room

by RichRawlings | 7 months ago | 17,882 views

Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - CO2 Basics

4:27   September 30, 2009

Howto & Style

RichRawlings

Adding CO2 to your grow room

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17,882 views

1:36

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wild pot grass reefer bud marijuana growing next to highway in iowa on Sept 18 ...

wild pot grass reefer bud marijuana growing next to highway in iowa on Sept 18 ...

Stopped to fix a flat tire and lo and behold, what should I spy? I pot plant with some sweet looking little buds on it. Here is a legal question ...

by bradhavingfun | 7 months ago | 13,665 views

wild pot grass reefer bud marijuana growing next to highway in iowa on Sept 18 ...

1:36   September 18, 2009

Comedy

bradhavingfun

Stopped to fix a flat tire and lo and behold, what should I spy? I pot plant with some sweet looking little buds on it. Here is a legal question ...

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13,665 views

10:53

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How to Clone Marijuana Plants for an Indoor Marijuana Grow :: part 1 : ...

How to Clone Marijuana Plants for an Indoor Marijuana Grow :: part 1 : ...

This is a great guide on how to clone marijuana plants for an indoor marijuana grow. alturl.com If you are growing marijuana indoors, and you want ...

by growingweedplants | 5 months ago | 42,905 views

How to Clone Marijuana Plants for an Indoor Marijuana Grow :: part 1 : ...

10:53   November 14, 2009

People & Blogs

growingweedplants

This is a great guide on how to clone marijuana plants for an indoor marijuana grow. alturl.com If you are growing marijuana indoors, and you want ...

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42,905 views

4:13

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growing marijuana part 3

growing marijuana part 3

this is a vid of week 2 day 2 of a few plants im working on..2 had died so i have 2 that are neww, about a week, and the other plant is at 2 weeks ...

by TheBuddabud | 4 weeks ago | 291 views

growing marijuana part 3

4:13   April 14, 2010

Howto & Style

TheBuddabud

this is a vid of week 2 day 2 of a few plants im working on..2 had died so i have 2 that are neww, about a week, and the other plant is at 2 weeks ...

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291 views

1:23

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Marijuana growing wild by the roadside

Marijuana growing wild by the roadside

Please visit www.simonreeve.co.uk for more information.Simon Reeve finds marijuana growing wild by the roadside in Kazakhstan, Central Asia, while ...

by shootandscribble | 1 year ago | 58,342 views

Marijuana growing wild by the roadside

1:23   February 07, 2009

Travel & Events

shootandscribble

Please visit www.simonreeve.co.uk for more information.Simon Reeve finds marijuana growing wild by the roadside in Kazakhstan, Central Asia, while ...

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58,342 views

3:11

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Growing Marijuana Song (Very Funny)

Growing Marijuana Song (Very Funny)

Growing Marijuana Song (Very Funny) If You Don't Find This Funny, Then I Really Don't Know What To Say.

by 23rdSAS | 2 years ago | 506,456 views

Growing Marijuana Song (Very Funny)

3:11   February 14, 2008

Music

23rdSAS

Growing Marijuana Song (Very Funny) If You Don't Find This Funny, Then I Really Don't Know What To Say.

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506,456 views

7:09

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Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - Intro

Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - Intro

This is the intro to Steve Kubby's Growing Marijuana Video. Each week I'll add a new segment of the video. I hope you enjoy and help over-grow the ...

by RichRawlings | 10 months ago | 7,865 views

Steve Kubby Growing Marijuana - Intro

7:09   July 14, 2009

Howto & Style

RichRawlings

This is the intro to Steve Kubby's Growing Marijuana Video. Each week I'll add a new segment of the video. I hope you enjoy and help over-grow the ...

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7,865 views

2:40

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Growing Marijuana* Time Laps Days 1-10

Growing Marijuana* Time Laps Days 1-10

Growing Marijuana. Days 1 -10 in HD time laps. Good for any new grower to see. Enjoy the seeds cracking open on the first day... Burying it's ...

by jmurp70 | 3 months ago | 15,026 views

Growing Marijuana* Time Laps Days 1-10

2:40   January 29, 2010

Entertainment

jmurp70

Growing Marijuana. Days 1 -10 in HD time laps. Good for any new grower to see. Enjoy the seeds cracking open on the first day... Burying it's ...

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15,026 views

0:55

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1st timer - Growing marijuana with LEDs

1st timer - Growing marijuana with LEDs

Its just an experiment and im growing marijuana first time. I made some mistakes growing them, but it wont happen second time. enyoy.

by LEDgrower | 1 year ago | 117,664 views

1st timer - Growing marijuana with LEDs

0:55   July 01, 2008

Science & Technology

LEDgrower

Its just an experiment and im growing marijuana first time. I made some mistakes growing them, but it wont happen second time. enyoy.

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117,664 views

1:32

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Growing Marijuana in California

Growing Marijuana in California

Attorney Bill Kroger describes the law regarding Growing Marijuana in California if you are a valid medical marijuana patient

by wskroger | 2 years ago | 15,835 views

Growing Marijuana in California

1:32   April 22, 2008

Education

wskroger

Attorney Bill Kroger describes the law regarding Growing Marijuana in California if you are a valid medical marijuana patient

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15,835 views

9:47

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Ready Set Grow (High Times Marijuana Growing) 1/7

Ready Set Grow (High Times Marijuana Growing) 1/7

Indoor Marijuana Growing

by BigBudMota | 1 year ago | 37,981 views

Ready Set Grow (High Times Marijuana Growing) 1/7

9:47   April 14, 2009

Howto & Style

BigBudMota

Indoor Marijuana Growing

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37,981 views

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